Glenn Martens has had an intense and exciting year, juggling multiple roles and projects. As the creative director of Y/Project since 2014, he has established the brand as a renowned label in Paris Fashion Week. Additionally, Martens took on the challenge of revitalizing Diesel’s presence in the fashion industry starting in 2021. On top of these responsibilities, he also created a haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, which received immense acclaim during Paris Fashion Week in January.
One might wonder how Martens manages to balance these numerous roles. He explained that his new position at Diesel has brought about significant changes to his schedule. He now dedicates his Mondays to Wednesdays to working at the Italian brand, adhering to a strict 8 am to 10 pm work schedule. This structured approach allows him to efficiently manage his appointments and movements. On Thursdays and Fridays, Martens focuses on his work at Y/Project in Paris.
Though managing two prominent roles simultaneously may appear challenging, Martens emphasizes that they represent two distinct worlds in terms of creativity and target audience. At Diesel, he enjoys the opportunity to sell denim and t-shirts, while at Y/Project, he can think more conceptually. Martens attributes his ability to manage both responsibilities to the power of teamwork. By keeping the teams separate, he avoids confusion and can concentrate on the different tasks at hand. Taking notes during train rides is also crucial for maximizing efficiency.
Martens also elaborated on how he manages his teams at Diesel and Y/Project. At Diesel, he likens the experience to leading an orchestra, playing more of a leadership role. In contrast, at Y/Project, he works closely with a team of 25 individuals who know him well. Their close relationship resembles that of a family, fostering a strong sense of camaraderie. In the interview, Martens highlighted that they all attended the Hyères Festival together, showcasing their tight bond. Notably, Martens acknowledged that he couldn’t personally design every silhouette for the nine collections produced this year. Instead, his collaborators took on more responsibilities, demonstrating their expertise.
While both brands utilize denim, Martens approaches each brand differently. At Diesel, the focus lies on the material, experimenting with techniques such as lamination, embroidery, and special treatments. He invests time in researching textiles and pushing the boundaries of creation. At Y/Project, the design process is more conceptual, ensuring a distinct identity for each brand.
Despite the challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic and subsequent lockdowns, Y/Project has experienced significant growth. Martens expressed satisfaction with the brand’s success, emphasizing that Y/Project continued to prioritize creativity while many other brands focused on producing simple products. Martens believes that it takes time for people to fully grasp and understand the essence of Y/Project. Currently, the brand is expanding its repertoire by developing a wide range of accessories.
When it comes to boutique openings, Y/Project already has a presence in 150 multi-brand boutiques around the world. However, the brand is considering the idea of opening dedicated corners within existing stores. In November, Y/Project will inaugurate its first corner in South Korea, specifically in Seoul.
In his role as the chair of the fashion category at the Hyères Festival, Martens was impressed by the commitment to sustainability showcased by the young finalists. Sustainability is ingrained in their language and design approach. Martens recognized their dedication towards creating beautiful garments while actively considering the planet and its future. This commitment to sustainability is something Martens himself embodies in his work. At Diesel, he initiated a review of the supply chain, resulting in 40% of the collection featuring denim pieces made from organic and recycled fibers. Additionally, the brand has taken measures to reduce water and chemical usage. At Y/Project, the Evergreen line was launched in 2020, representing an eco-responsible collection that makes up 20% of their offerings. Martens acknowledged that change cannot happen overnight, but they are continuously incorporating more sustainable elements into their designs.
In conclusion, Glenn Martens exemplifies the ability to successfully balance multiple roles and projects. With his dynamic leadership and commitment to sustainability, he continues to make a significant impact in the fashion industry as the creative director of Y/Project and Diesel.
Useful links:
1. Y/Project Official Website
2. Diesel Official Website
