Chanel, the renowned fashion brand, is currently being honored in a new retrospective exhibition titled “Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto” at the V&A Museum in London. While it may not achieve the same level of success as previous blockbuster fashion exhibitions at the museum, such as the record-breaking Alexander McQueen show or the popular Christian Dior showcase, it remains a stylish homage to Chanel’s work and cultural significance.
The exhibition debuted on September 16 and has already sold out tickets for much of its duration. Visitors will be treated to a display of over 200 looks and accessories from Chanel’s illustrious career. One of the highlights of the show is a dedicated room featuring “the suit,” showcasing more than 50 tweed garments. These suits, symbolic of Chanel’s vision of femininity in the postwar era, take center stage and envelop viewers in their timeless beauty. Notably, actress Margot Robbie even sported a Chanel tweed suit earlier this summer to promote Barbie, demonstrating the enduring relevance of Chanel’s designs.
Another fascinating aspect of the exhibition is the exploration of Gabrielle Chanel’s connections with the United Kingdom, highlighting her admiration for British culture and aristocrats. Visitors can admire a painting of Chanel by Winston Churchill as well as learn about her affair with the Duke of Westminster. Chanel found inspiration for many of her renowned designs through her interactions with British aristocrats, who possessed a deep admiration for outdoor sports.
The exhibition takes guests on a journey through Chanel’s life, starting from her humble beginnings in rural France and culminating in her ascent as one of the most influential figures in 20th-century fashion. Chanel initially learned the art of sewing while residing in a Catholic orphanage before securing work as a seamstress. With the assistance of English aristocrat Arthur Capel, she opened her first shops and began creating clothes using unconventional fabrics like jersey, which were primarily used in menswear. One of her early masterpieces was a feminine reinterpretation of the marinière, the iconic blue-and-white striped top donned by French sailors.
Chanel’s signature style, characterized by monochromatic hues and simplistic silhouettes, quickly gained prominence in Paris and beyond. Her “little black dress” revolutionized fashion in the 1920s, transforming black from a color associated with mourning to a chic and timeless wardrobe essential. Her designs gained such popularity that they were likened to the “Ford” of the fashion world.
The exhibition also features some notable pieces, including a sequined navy dress from the 1930s, purchased by the Duchess of Westminster despite Chanel’s involvement with her husband. Additionally, there is a pair of silver metallic pajamas from 1967, which wouldn’t be out of place at a contemporary New York Fashion Week event.
The exhibition concludes with Chanel’s final work in 1971, symbolizing her passing at the age of 87. Notable attendees at her funeral included fashion luminaries such as Yves Saint Laurent, Salvador Dali, and numerous models. However, it’s worth mentioning that the exhibition does not delve into the subsequent history of the House of Chanel with designer Karl Lagerfeld.
While the exhibition primarily celebrates Chanel’s contributions to the fashion industry, it falters when addressing Gabrielle Chanel’s activities during World War II. The exhibition acknowledges her relationship with a German officer, Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage, hinting at potential collaboration with the Nazis but also implying her involvement with the French Resistance. This level of ambiguity mirrors the conflicting portrayals of Chanel herself.
In addition to showcasing fashion pieces, the exhibition also highlights the “invisible accessory” of perfume. Chanel No. 5, one of the most iconic fragrances in the world, is featured alongside original bottles of the scent. While visitors are unable to physically experience the fragrance, the exhibit includes a handwritten letter from Queen Elizabeth II, dated 1955, expressing her gratitude for a gift of Chanel No. 5.
“Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto” stands as a comprehensive display of Chanel’s enduring legacy and her impact on the fashion industry. Although it may not reach the same level of the previous fashion exhibitions at the V&A Museum, it remains a must-see for enthusiasts of Chanel and fashion alike. The exhibition will be open at the V&A until February 25, granting ample time for visitors to immerse themselves in Chanel’s lasting influence.
Useful Links:
1. V&A Museum Exhibition: Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto
2. Chanel Haute Couture Collection
