France has decided to halt its investigation into allegations that four fashion groups profited from Uyghur forced labor in China. The decision was announced by the national anti-terror prosecutor’s office in Paris, which cited a lack of jurisdiction to prosecute crimes that were likely committed by Chinese companies in China. However, the plaintiffs’ lawyer has stated that they plan to file a new complaint.
The investigation was initiated in 2021 after a complaint was filed by several organizations, including Sherpa, the French branch of the Clean Clothes Campaign, the Uyghur Institute of Europe, and a Uyghur woman who had been detained in a camp in Xinjiang, China. The multinational companies under scrutiny included Inditex (owner of Zara), Uniqlo, SMCP (a French fashion group), and Skechers, all of which were accused of using cotton produced in the Xinjiang region.
According to human rights organizations, over one million Uyghurs and other predominantly Muslim minorities have been imprisoned in camps in Xinjiang, where China has been accused of committing various human rights abuses, including forced labor and forced sterilization of women. These accusations were based on a report released by the Australian Strategic Policy Institute in March 2020.
On April 12, the prosecutor’s office informed the plaintiffs that the investigation was being discontinued due to a lack of jurisdiction. The fashion groups involved in the case have consistently denied the allegations. For example, Inditex emphasized its strict traceability controls, Uniqlo claimed to conduct inspections through third parties to ensure compliance with human rights, and SMCP stated that they have always denied the accusations and believed the probe was dropped after their name was removed from the Australian NGO report in October 2022.
The dropping of the investigation has sparked disappointment and concern among human rights advocates, who fear that it sends a message that corporations may act with impunity. However, the plaintiffs’ lawyer remains determined to seek justice for the Uyghur minority and has expressed their intention to file a new complaint.
Useful links:
1. BBC: China’s Hidden Camps
2. Human Rights Watch: China 2021
