Fiorucci, the iconic Italian brand, is embarking on an exciting new chapter as it returns to its roots in Milan. After being sold late last year, the brand is leaving behind its British ownership and embracing a fresh executive and creative team. Under the leadership of CEO Alessandro Pisani and Creative Director Francesca Murri, Fiorucci plans to undergo a process of creative reconstruction and unveil a new collection during Milan Fashion Week in September.
The relaunch of Fiorucci will bring about significant changes compared to its previous incarnation under British ownership. Acquired by businesswoman Janie Schaffer in 2015, the brand was relaunched in 2017, with Daniel W Fletcher appointed as its menswear artistic director in 2019. However, Fletcher has recently stepped down from the role. In 2022, Swiss businesswoman Dona Bertarelli, a minority stakeholder, purchased the brand with the intention of developing it as a high-end Italian brand.
CEO Pisani has emphasized that the revival of Fiorucci will involve radical changes. The brand will place a strong emphasis on quality, sustainability, and creativity, resulting in a 40% price increase. In addition, new product categories such as shoes, eyewear, jewelry, and bags will be introduced. Pisani expressed the mission of reviving Fiorucci’s playful and disruptive heritage to inspire a new generation.
In conjunction with the announcement of the brand’s plans for Milan Fashion Week, the company has officially confirmed Bertarelli’s acquisition of Fiorucci. Pisani and Bertarelli will work together to guide the brand into its next phase. Pisani, a veteran of fashion giants such as Ballantyne, Valentino, and Diesel, envisions Fiorucci as an accessible luxury brand with an Italian point of view.
Fiorucci’s rich history dates back to its founder, Elio Fiorucci, who opened his store in Milan in 1967. He aimed to bring the vibrant spirit of London’s Carnaby Street to his home city. The brand quickly expanded and became a fashion driver, cultural touchpoint, and innovator in the 1970s. However, poor management led to its decline, and it changed hands multiple times before the Schaffers acquired it.
While the transition from British ownership and a British creative head to an all-Italian team in Milan raises questions about the future style of Fiorucci, the brand still maintains a connection to London. The London office will continue to operate, preserving around 20 jobs in key areas such as e-commerce. However, the London store on Brewer Street is expected to close.
Fiorucci’s time under British control played a vital role in reestablishing the brand, relaunching it in the UK and North America, and forging partnerships with high-profile retailers. The brand’s focus on multibrand retail remains unchanged, with a goal of having 300 stockists within three years. The initial target markets include Europe, the US, Japan, South Korea, and China.
Fiorucci’s return to Milan marks a new beginning for the brand as it seeks to redefine itself in the ever-evolving fashion industry. With a renewed emphasis on quality, sustainability, and creativity, Fiorucci aims to continue its legacy of positive disruption and inspire a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.
Sources:
– Business of Fashion
– Vogue Business
