Sunday morning in Milan was a momentous occasion for two iconic Italian brands – Ferrari and Ferragamo. While one has long established its presence in the fashion industry, the other is on a mission to revitalize a cherished Florentine gem.
Ferragamo’s runway shows, which were once regarded as mundane by most editors, have now become highly sought-after events since the arrival of UK designer Maximilan Davis. This season, the show took place in the expansive hall at the Fiera di Milano, the largest commercial salon space in Europe. Max showcased his sleek vision, with mono-color designs taking center stage. His collection featured sharply-tailored suits with Jesuit sleeves, technologically-inspired coat dresses with power shoulders, and waist-cinching jackets. The key concept of his collection, however, was the draping and ruching of daywear – exemplified by funnel neck trench coats in white nylon or forest green leather, which were gathered at the neck and cascaded down one side. Max also incorporated techy military coats for both men and women, with extended back panels and mutton-chop sleeves.
Drawing inspiration from Italian sixties illustrators, Max created curvaceous splashes and twists, evident in the organically-shaped leather coats in pink and red, or chocolate and beige. He also designed ruched black and white cocktail attire. When asked about his muse, he referenced Giovanni Anselmo, a prominent figure in the Arte Povera movement of the same era. Max enjoys blending playfulness, respectfulness, and a touch of perversity in his designs. In fact, he even attached the fashion version of a horse’s tail to certain looks, seamlessly melding hard and soft elements in many ensembles. The show concluded with the striking image of Vittoria Ceretti in a molded shoe leather bodice attached to a fluid jersey dress.
In the lead-up to the show, Ferragamo generated significant media buzz by showcasing its brand-new campaign, Ferragamo Firenze, on a massive billboard at Milan’s Linate airport’s luggage carousel. This ensured that every buyer, editor, and influencer had an up-close and personal encounter with the ad. The campaign features Italy’s leading model, Vittoria Ceretti, alongside a group of friends, all posing in front of a magnificent Giorgio Vasari painting on loan from the Uffizi Gallery – a paramount museum of Renaissance art. Max commended the brand’s marketing team for successfully incorporating the essence of Florence into his debut collection and interpreting Renaissance art through drapery. His goal is not to change the brand, but to infuse it with new energy while maintaining reverence for its heritage.
Meanwhile, Ferrari’s latest show was accompanied by a live performance of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons by a string quintet, blended with techno dance music – the perfect representation of the brand’s distinct blend of industrial and subtle fashion. Under the creative direction of Rocco Iannone, Ferrari has established a unique fashion DNA, striking a delicate balance between polished dressing, resilient fabrics, and a sense of speed and dynamism.
The collection was cleverly presented in blocks of color, encompassing white, flesh tones, denim, black, copper, and the iconic Ferrari red. It showcased a print-free range inspired by Formula One iconography, albeit with a subtle touch. Standout pieces included mechanic jumpsuits in midnight blue wool or Ferrari red leather. The accessories were equally impressive, featuring superb evening gloves that incorporated elements of biker protection gear.
Rocco titled this spring/summer collection “Power of Desire,” showcasing the human form through translucent, flesh-colored mesh tops and dresses, revealing a new series of Ferrari logo underwear. The show took place at the Teatro Alcione, within the Hypersonic Coffee Lounge, where the music of Tagha reverberated through the space.
Rocco’s program notes emphasized that desire is the driving force behind every shape we encounter, and those who aspire to a specific silhouette must marry it with the right texture and material.
In conclusion, both Ferrari and Ferragamo delivered captivating shows in Milan, embodying their unique brand identities while breathing new life into their collections. The fusion of heritage and innovation was evident, further enhancing the allure of these Italian brands within the fashion industry.
Links:
1. Ferrari Official Website
2. Ferragamo Official Website
