Fashion East, a highly anticipated event in London’s fashion calendar, captured the attention of industry insiders over the weekend. Renowned organizer Lulu Kennedy curated a showcase featuring four emerging designers: Olly Shinder, Michael Stewart of Standing Ground, Johanna Parv, and A Sai Ta of Asai, all of whom presented their unique creative visions.
One standout designer from the show was Michael Stewart, hailing from Ireland, who wowed the audience with his clever draping techniques. Using lightweight, fluid jersey fabrics in monochromatic tones, Stewart meticulously crafted sculptural silhouettes, intricate ruching, and exquisite beadwork. Inspired by the vast depths of the prehistoric ocean Tethys, his collection showcased biomorphic shapes and undulating screen goddess dresses, imbuing his pieces with a modern couture sensibility.
Estonian designer Johanna Parv impressed with her collection tailored for stylish cyclists. Utilizing technical fabrics, Parv effortlessly combined fashion and functionality. Her ensembles, suitable for various occasions ranging from work to casual outings, featured cycling shorts or knee-length leggings paired with windcheaters, parkas, and padded gilets. Parv’s impeccable understanding of flattering sheer fabrics and clever use of darts, hems, and stitching demonstrated her potential as a designer with a promising future.
Olly Shinder, a recent graduate of Central St Martin’s, garnered attention with his deconstruction of traditional masculine codes. Shinder’s collection highlighted gingham shirts, Lederhosen-inspired shorts, form-fitting tops, and deep gorge gilets embellished with his signature whirlpool logo. Drawing inspiration from London’s fashion establishment, art institutions, and queer night spaces, Shinder subtly subverted conventional male dressing, showcasing his originality and innovation as a designer.
A Sai Ta, the creative mind behind Asai, presented fearless and vibrant designs. Ta’s fantastical color palette, ranging from orange sherbet to psychedelic violet, led to the creation of revealing dresses that made a powerful impact. Asai’s barely-there crocheted garments were perfectly suited for rock stars on a global tour, attracting a celebrity clientele including Rihanna, Teyana Taylor, and Dev Hynes. Ta’s designs exude confidence and individuality, making a bold statement on the runway.
AN-Y1, a haute-sport chic brand under the Gulf Oil umbrella, caught the eye of Formula One enthusiasts. Launched at the prestigious Monaco Grand Prix in 2021, AN-Y1 offers snug and stylish unisex leather biker jackets in the iconic Gulf Oil colors. The brand also provides silk twill jumpsuits and shorts for women, while men can opt for cotton boiler suits. Created by Anu Hinduja and Nandita Mahtani, AN-Y1 captures the thrill of speed through its striking designs. With a growing following, the brand plans to expand through pop-up stores in Dubai and Singapore after a successful June pop-up on London’s renowned Savile Row.
Continuing the trend of Victorian-inspired fashion, Malone Souliers showcased corsetry detailing, 19th-century-style clasps, and Dickensian booties. While manufactured in Italy, the brand remains true to its British design heritage. Pointed pumps adorned with pearls, sherbet satin high heel court shoes with square clasps, and slingbacks trimmed in grosgrain ribbon all convey a Victorian lingerie aesthetic. Malone Souliers also introduced crystal-covered shoes and a full crystal mesh boot, combining the essence of Victoria with the allure of Las Vegas glamour.
Banshee of Savile Row, an Irish brand making waves in England, brings sophisticated tailoring with a modern twist. The label held a runway show at its showroom on Savile Row, presenting elegant tailored pieces with bold names like Empress, Tigress, and Lion. Designer Ruby Slevin, known for her knack for blending long and short garments, paired sequined minis with ankle-trimming velvet coats, creating a juxtaposition of textures. Banshee of Savile Row serves both direct-to-consumer clients and provides bespoke services, with plans to showcase its designs through trunk shows in major U.S. cities like New York, Chicago, and Los Angeles.
Closing the London fashion season with a surreal touch, Ashish delivered an otherworldly experience for guests. The show, held at Nobu Hotel, featured a black goddess adorned in a three-meter-long dress, perched on a silvery moon, welcoming attendees. Ashish combined his trademark sequins with collaborator Linder Sterling’s halftone dots, referencing the power of dreams. The collection showcased lean sheath dresses, sequined flowers, patchwork leggings, and avant-garde transgender looks. Worn by influential figures like Beyoncé, Debbie Harry, Rihanna, and Taylor Swift, Ashish’s maximalist designs reflect the belief that surrealism is essential to maintaining sanity in the modern world.
Fashion East once again proved its reputation as a platform for discovering fresh talent in the London fashion scene. With designers like Michael Stewart, Johanna Parv, Olly Shinder, and A Sai Ta, alongside brands such as AN-Y1, Malone Souliers, Banshee of Savile Row, and Ashish, London’s fashion industry continues to push the boundaries of innovation and creativity.
Useful links:
1. Vogue: Fashion East Spotlight
2. Business of Fashion: Fashion East SS22 Programme
