On the last day of New York Fashion Week, two designers, Who Decides War and Willy Chavarria, presented collections that showcased their evolution beyond streetwear. Who Decides War’s collection, titled ‘Politics As Usual’, paid tribute to the diverse and stylish essence of New York City. The audience, which included influential personalities such as Heron Preston and Joey Bada$$, enthusiastically embraced the blend of music genres and the accompanying clothing. Designers Everard Best and Tela D’Amore aimed to broaden their appeal by creating pieces that could resonate with a wider audience, rather than confining themselves to a specific market or age group.
The collection from Who Decides War prominently featured the brand’s distinctive stained-glass window motif in inventive ways, including cutouts, patches, and flap-like cuts. They also incorporated intricate embroidery, shredding techniques, and knotting cording details. Collaborations with renowned brands like Adidas and JakisChrist further enhanced the collective spirit of the collection. The show took place in a beautifully decayed synagogue, adding to the overall ambiance and referencing the designers’ inspiration drawn from cathedral architecture.
Willy Chavarria’s runway show, held at the Cooper-Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum, showcased the designers’ maturity and their desire to be taken more seriously in the fashion world. Chavarria, who also holds the position of senior vice president of design at Calvin Klein, drew inspiration from a This Mortal Coil song titled ‘Kangaroo’. The collection exuded a serious and somber mood, featuring monastic robes, sheer chiffon shirts with pussy bows, and high-waisted pants with cummerbunds. Chavarria explored a sleeker silhouette with double-breasted tuxedo coats and skinny pants. Puff-sleeved blouses, inspired by the iconic Yves Saint Laurent, added a feminine touch to the collection. Blurring gender lines, models swapped gender-specific garments, reflecting Chavarria’s belief that designing for specific genders is becoming outdated. He sees his collection as a singular expression. The all-black lineup, with occasional touches of white, gave the collection a monastic feel, symbolizing an emphasis on appreciating the present moment. Chavarria deliberately removed color from the collection to convey a clear and concise message, distancing himself from what he perceives as the cluttered nature of American fashion.
Both collections served as a testament to the growth and sophistication of these designers, showcasing their ability to transcend the boundaries of streetwear and venture into new territories. They exhibited an evolution in their designs, revealing a deeper understanding of aesthetics and a desire to be taken more seriously within the fashion industry.
Useful links:
– For more information on Who Decides War, visit their website here.
– To explore Willy Chavarria’s work, visit their official website here.
