ERL, the fashion label created by designer Eli Russel Linnetz, made a memorable impression at Pitti Uomo with a show that captivated audiences with its combination of Hollywood cinema, Californian surf culture, science fiction, opera, and the Renaissance. Linnetz, a native of Venice Beach, transported viewers to the year 2176, where a group of surfers arrive in Florence to discover a forgotten collection of opulent clothing in a stunning Baroque palazzo. The surfers transform into Renaissance Princes, wearing futuristic and couture garments in a mineral palette of light and dark grays with metallic and silver accents.
The show was a sensory experience, with crashing waves, flashing strobe lights, and a seventies rock soundtrack that set the mood. The models strutted down the runway with the effortless grace of Californian surfers, showcasing ensembles made of iridescent taffeta, moiré silk, and shiny dark suits with a wet, light-reflecting effect. The collection featured oversized collars, sequined polka dots, pearl-trimmed formal wear, fringed epaulettes, military details, crystal chains, and even medieval shields, creating an eclectic mix of styles. Chokers by Tom Binns completed the looks.
Linnetz’s passion for opera and his background in photography, design, and creative directing heavily influenced the show. He conducted extensive research in the archives of the Los Angeles Opera and the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino theater, drawing inspiration from historic costumes and fabrics. The collection showcased brocades and damask fabrics, highlighting the designer’s commitment to authenticity and organic creativity.
In an interview backstage, Linnetz discussed his approach to fashion, emphasizing his love for collages and the combination of flea market and recycled clothing. Linnetz first gained recognition in the music industry, collaborating with artists like Kanye West and Lady Gaga, before venturing into the world of fashion with the support of Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe of Dover Street Market. ERL quickly gained popularity with its cool Californian spirit and is now available in over 300 retailers worldwide.
Linnetz’s connection to Hollywood and cinema is evident in his designs, with standout pieces like a sequined Statue of Liberty. The designer even installed a half-capsized replica of the iconic statue at Pitti Uomo, reminiscent of a scene from the film “Planet of the Apes.” Alongside the couture pieces, the collection also featured more casual outfits such as sleeveless jackets, jumpsuits, stone-encrusted leggings, and plush sweaters in silver tinsel yarn.
For the first time, Linnetz introduced eyewear and footwear to his collection, all produced in-house. Futuristic glasses with thick rubber frames and oversized fur-lined tennis shoes, inspired by skateboarding and surfing, added a glamorous touch to the looks. Some models carried meteorite-shaped sculpture bags as well.
Speaking about his brand and the show, Linnetz expressed that fashion is not his ultimate goal but rather an evolution and another facet of his creativity. He emphasized his involvement in various artistic endeavors, from filmmaking to music, and his desire to have control over all aspects of his work. With a touch of humor, he jokingly added that this might be his first and last show, as the entire process of creating a collection and showcasing it on the runway is overwhelming for him.
ERL’s galactic show at Pitti Uomo demonstrated that Eli Russel Linnetz is an influential figure in the fashion industry. By combining elements of history, pop culture, and his own unique vision, Linnetz created a collection that is visually stunning and thought-provoking. The future looks bright for ERL, and it will be exciting to see what this talented designer has in store next.
Useful links:
– [Los Angeles Opera](https://www.laopera.org/) – For more information about the opera company that inspired Linnetz’s collection.
– [Dover Street Market](https://www.doverstreetmarket.com/) – Visit the website of Dover Street Market, which supported Linnetz’s fashion career.
