Paris Fashion Week was filled with awe-inspiring collections, but two designers truly stood out from the rest – Dries Van Noten and Jun Takahashi of Undercover. Each designer brought their unique style and artistic vision to the runway, leaving the audience in a state of wonder.
Dries Van Noten’s collection was a magnificent blend of classical active sports ideas and elegant silhouettes. Drawing inspiration from 1920s sportswear, Van Noten incorporated elements such as chino, denim, and rugby stripes into his designs. However, what truly set his collection apart was the unexpected combination of these sporty elements. Oversized parkas were paired with sports bras, trench coats were made with rugby club broad stripes, and striped pants were worn with intricately embroidered dusters. Additionally, Van Noten pushed the boundaries by experimenting with couture-worthy denim looks, including a stunning WW1 field-marshal’s coat and a pagoda jacket. It is clear that Van Noten’s collection will have a significant impact on fashion trends in the upcoming year.
The sensory experience of Van Noten’s show extended beyond the clothes. The carefully curated music added a whole new layer of fascination to the runway. Too Many DJs created an incredible mix of spoken words by iconic artists like Madonna and Billie Holiday, combining them with orchestral lush rock. The result was a truly immersive experience, showcasing the underappreciated artistry of show soundtracks.
As Van Noten took his bow, the audience erupted in thunderous applause. It was evident that he had struck gold with this collection. Fashion enthusiasts can expect his designs to be highly sought after and coveted.
On the other hand, Jun Takahashi of Undercover brought his whimsical and unique style to the runway. His collection concluded with a breathtaking display of bubble skirts, which illuminated to reveal miniature pink and white rose gardens with fluttering butterflies. Each look in Takahashi’s collection exuded a sense of magic and enchantment. Delicate veiling covered sleek suits and patchwork blazers made from a combination of materials like chalk-stripe, gabardine, dove gray wool, and gauze. The evening looks were particularly outstanding, with printed gowns inspired by Neo Rauch’s historic religious oil paintings. These gowns seamlessly combined images of saints, scholars, sailors, and savants, creating a captivating visual spectacle.
Takahashi explained that his inspiration from Rauch’s paintings led him to “delete everything” and “clean the mind” in order to create his own interpretation. The show continued with oversized pajama looks, bold bankers’ suits, silk blouses, and summer trenches, all prominently featuring Rauch’s images. Takahashi’s collection was like a dream, where figures from the past came to life and preserved memories like ghosts.
It is crucial to acknowledge that these interpretations may not fully capture the essence and meaning behind the designers’ work. Fashion is a subjective art form, open to individual interpretation. However, it is impossible to deny the immense talent and creativity displayed by both Dries Van Noten and Jun Takahashi at Paris Fashion Week. Their collections have undoubtedly left a lasting impression on the fashion industry.
For more details about Dries Van Noten’s collection, visit link 1 and for Jun Takahashi’s collection, visit link 2.
