During Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Dries Van Noten and Ami captivated audiences with their unique collections. Dries Van Noten utilized a gritty construction site as the backdrop for his disruptive tailoring, providing a striking contrast to his cerebral fashion. The location added an element of effort, with attendees having to climb five floors to witness the collection, but it was undoubtedly worth it. Surprisingly, Dries strayed from his renowned printmaking skills this season, instead focusing on cut, construction, silhouette, and shape.
The show commenced with impeccably tailored looks, featuring sleek trenches crafted from fluid fabrics like muslin. Some pants were cut in a manner that allowed the top half of the trench to cascade down and transform into an apron. Others showcased oversized and elongated double-breasted jackets made from crushed cotton. One standout piece was a herringbone coat with a lapel that seemingly appeared shorn off. Dries described the collection as “distorted and disruptive elegance,” emphasizing his mission to provide young people with more avenues for self-expression through fashion.
Throughout the collection, Dries maintained an elongated and narrow silhouette while incorporating hints of sportswear and streetwear. Vibrant prints took a backseat this season, as graphic motifs were subtly overlaid like shadows, creating a delicate use of color. Floaty fabrics such as muslins and silk plongé were utilized, with some being overdied to add a touch of masculinity. Additionally, nylon mackintoshes with a metallic gleam brought another dimension to the collection.
Dries Van Noten expressed his ongoing fascination with tailoring, noting that he is now dressing a third generation. He humorously mentioned how models born in 2010 are appreciating the art of tailoring, showcasing his ability to adapt while staying true to his signature style. Evidently, Dries Van Noten’s latest collection is a testament to his evolution and understanding of the nuanced details cherished by male models in menswear.
On the other hand, Ami offered a highly competent and commercially appealing collection that catered to a wide range of wardrobes. Founder and designer Alexandre Mattiussi presented graceful double-breasted jackets as the standout item of the season, offering them in various captivating colorways. Elongated top-coats and fluid pants added to the elegance of the men’s looks, while women were presented with to-the-knee slashed skirts in an array of materials, stylish suits, and sheath dresses featuring side cuts up to the hip. The collection encapsulated the French aesthetic that Ami fans yearn for – a romantic yet grounded Parisian look.
The show took place at the iconic Tennis Club de Paris, a venue renowned for hosting extraordinary fashion showcases by industry greats. The all-white felt carpet served as the striking backdrop, while attendees sat on collapsible school chairs, a seating choice favored by Mattiussi. The casting for the show included notable names such as Vincent Cassel and Vittoria Ceretti, further enhancing the allure of the event.
Worn by a diverse cast of cool young models, including Audrey Marnay and Guinevere van Seenus, Ami’s collection exuded sophistication and luxury. The French influences were evident in every detail, including the footwear. Women’s pumps featured striped vertical columns, while men sported chunky Roman centurion sandals. However, despite its undeniable grace and harmony, the collection faced criticism for not offering anything significantly different from previous Ami shows, lacking a unique touch or an element of surprise.
Both Dries Van Noten and Ami showcased their talents and presented their interpretations of contemporary fashion during Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Dries captivated with his disruptive tailoring and silhouette, while Ami provided a commercial collection infused with a French aesthetic. These designers catered to different fashion preferences, demonstrating the diversity and creativity within the world of men’s fashion.
Useful links:
1. Dries Van Noten Spring 2022 Menswear Collection
2. Ami Spring 2022 Menswear Collection
