Diversity and rebellion took center stage at Paris Fashion Week, captivating audiences with bold and innovative designs. Despite claims that diversity is no longer in vogue, brands like Paloma Wool, Pressiat, and Vaquera proved otherwise, showcasing collections that celebrated inclusivity and shattered traditional norms.
Paloma Wool, a notable Spanish brand, made a powerful statement about motherhood and reinvention in their Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Creative director Paloma Lanna boldly appeared on the runway with her baby in her arms, highlighting the visibility of motherhood in the fashion industry. While the brand has been renowned for its asymmetrical knitted designs, worn by notable artists such as Rosalía, Dua Lipa, and Amaia, Lanna explained that becoming a mother has influenced her creative perspective. The new collection embraced more understated and sporty garments, including layered transparent fabrics, draped and fitted dresses, as well as commercial pieces like hooded tops and biker shorts. Paloma Wool’s evolution towards personal and professional maturity is evident in the elevated and experimental designs that cater to women of all ages and sizes.
Pressiat, a French label, created an enchanting secret cabaret atmosphere to unveil their latest collection. Drawing inspiration from the works of Spanish surrealist filmmaker Luis Buñuel, the collection reimagined a Parisian tale where the bourgeois found their alter egos in the vibrant red light district of Pigalle. The show aimed to reflect contemporary society’s need to rebel against judgment and conventional norms. The collection featured a diverse range of garments, ranging from protective armor to sensuous cinched corsets. Pencil skirts, punk cardigans, velvet and leather dresses, fishnet stockings, lingerie looks, and satin tuxedos dominated the runway. The show seamlessly merged the world of high society with the sexually liberated women of Pigalle, transcending notions of gender and age. American singer Halsey, who walked the catwalk hand in hand with the designer, stood out among the lineup of diverse models, further emphasizing the brand’s commitment to inclusivity.
Vaquera, an American brand, showcased their distinctive style that effortlessly blends the edginess of underground fashion with mainstream trends. This season, their aim was to surpass their commercial success and create a new reality. The collection embraced wide satin pants, tiny tops resembling pirate patches, synthetic fur hats, ripped denim looks, biker jackets, graphic t-shirts, asymmetrical prom dresses, and provocative lingerie. Showstopping pieces included a head-turning total pink fishnet ensemble and satirical wedding dresses that either mocked or imitated Victoria’s Secret lingerie. The brand’s name, Vaquera, borrowed from one of the founder’s nicknames, perfectly encapsulates their unconventional and rebellious approach to fashion. Renowned for their avant-garde designs, Vaquera has gained recognition and was even showcased at the prestigious Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
Paloma Wool, Pressiat, and Vaquera collectively challenge the notion that diversity is no longer fashionable. These brands continue to push boundaries and champion inclusivity and rebellion in the fashion industry. Their modern and disruptive designs serve as a powerful reminder that fashion is not confined to a singular mold but instead celebrates the unique beauty and individuality of all.
Useful Links:
1. Paloma Wool Collection – Vogue
2. Pressiat AW22 Collection – Harper’s Bazaar
