During Paris Fashion Week, three prominent fashion houses – Givenchy, Rick Owens, and Isabel Marant – took center stage to present their collections, each showcasing a distinct vision of a strong and empowered woman. These designers captivated the audience with their unique interpretations of femininity and resilience in the face of adversity.
Under the creative direction of Matthew M. Williams, Givenchy presented an elegant collection that brought a contemporary twist to the brand’s iconic couture. The runway show opened and closed with striking all-black ensembles, featuring sheath dresses that beautifully accentuated the natural curves of the body. The collection featured elongated silhouettes that were enhanced by maxi coats boasting square shoulders, crafted from luxurious fabrics like wool, velvet, and leather. Sleeves cascaded over hands and skirts displayed daring high slits up to the thigh. Even the short square jacket-dresses were elevated with delicate tulle trains, while silk blouses were adorned with dainty ribbons. While predominantly dark, the collection was infused with pops of green, yellow, and cream, adding a touch of sensuality. Ultra-light dresses made from transparent chiffon exuded an air of romance and sensuality. Paying homage to Givenchy’s heritage, some pieces featured fish or flower motifs from the house’s archives. Long opera gloves and voluminous tailored items added a glamorous and sophisticated appeal. The collection also showcased layering techniques, incorporating jackets, overskirts, shorts, and cargo trousers to transform tailored pieces into streetwear styles.
Rick Owens transported viewers to ancient kingdoms with his collection, drawing inspiration from Luxor, an ancient city in Egypt. Models donned pointed double bun headdresses and leather thigh-high boots with reinforced toes and striking Plexiglas heels. The collection embraced majestic silhouettes, with long trains that looked worn and tattered as if they had endured the test of time and battles. Tight knit dresses with wide collars, mini-capes, and short dresses adorned with leather straps reminiscent of night birds’ plumage were prominent in the collection. Sculptural jackets wrapped the body and head, featuring voluminous collars that exuded a regal aura. Sheath dresses with high pointed shoulders paid homage to the queens of the past. Notably, monumental down jackets imprisoned torsos and arms, resembling large buoys. Rick Owens intentionally used recycled or traceable materials for this collection, showcasing his commitment to sustainability in fashion.
Closing the day with a bold statement, Isabel Marant attracted a large crowd to the gardens of the Palais Royal. The essence of the Isabel Marant girl was evident in her extensive range of boots and ankle boots, which were showcased with a variety of three-height zipped thigh-high boots that could be dismantled into three parts. The collection exuded desire and disorder, combining subtle sexiness with a cozy and reassuring aesthetic. 3D knitted dresses with twists or unbuttoned versions were paired with camel coats, casual anoraks with drawstrings, or wool double-breasted jackets. The collection also included trompe-l’oeil low-rise jeans and trousers, denim pilot suits, and woolen coats with side pockets reminiscent of jacket designs. Eveningwear took on a shimmering appearance with micro dresses and leggings embellished with rhinestones. The closing of the show was marked by Isabel Marant herself, who greeted the audience alongside her right-hand woman, Kim Bekker, the newly appointed creative director.
In conclusion, each designer showcased their unique interpretation of the modern superwoman, highlighting her strength, resilience, and versatility. Paris Fashion Week not only celebrates the art of fashion but the multifaceted women who wear these creations.
Useful links:
1. Givenchy Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection
2. Rick Owens Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection
