No. 21 and Calcaterra were two designers who stood out at the Milan Fashion Week runway shows with their distinct approaches to fashion. Alessandro dell’Acqua, the designer behind No. 21, showcased a collection that revolved around passion and love. He explored the various emotions experienced in a secret love affair, capturing moments of adoration and abandonment. The collection featured playful elements, such as vertiginous mules with invisible heels, symbolizing the dynamic nature of love. Mesh suits adorned with red sequins represented passion, while floral and feathered garments exuded joy. Dell’Acqua also incorporated elements of eroticism and sexuality with tight skirts, powder pink crop tops, and skin-toned pieces.
No. 21’s collection also had a darker side, with “dark lady” looks embodying sadness and pain. Dark minidresses, jumpsuits, and transparent black garments portrayed the melancholic aspects of love. A standout piece was a torn-apart wedding dress, symbolizing unfulfilled nuptials. Dell’Acqua transformed vintage wedding dresses into disheveled white outfits, reflecting the character’s state of mind. Unconventional styling choices, like asymmetric cardigans and crumpled shirts, added to the overall aesthetic. Vibrant retro satin lingerie playfully peeked through transparent shirts, completing the disheveled look.
On the other hand, Daniele Calcaterra took a different approach in his collection, focusing on exaggerated volumes. His garments seemed to inflate with the wind, creating oversized proportions. Macramé pieces made from woven raffia, including tunics, jackets, trousers, bags with fringes, and boots, exemplified this airy spirit. The collection featured blazers with loose and rounded silhouettes, as well as oversized sleeveless men’s jackets resembling waistcoats. Sleeveless white shirts were cinched at the waist with black belts, creating an hourglass effect. Loose-fitting trousers and Bermuda shorts added to the relaxed aesthetic.
Calcaterra played with contrasts in his collection, incorporating fabrics of varying weights such as linen, leather, silk, and ultra-light chiffon. The color palette primarily featured monochrome looks, with white and black dominating, occasionally punctuated by distressed caramel-colored leather suits, bottle green dresses, and lemon-yellow ensembles. The designer described his woman as androgynous with a touch of sensuality, showcasing the powerful duality within his designs.
Overall, the Milan Fashion Week runway shows were a showcase of diverse female sensibilities. No. 21’s collection beautifully captured the passionate and tumultuous nature of love, while Calcaterra played with exaggerated volumes and contrasting fabrics to add a unique twist to his collection. These designers brought elegance and charm to the Milanese catwalks, leaving a lasting impression on fashion enthusiasts.
Useful links:
1. No. 21’s official website: https://www.number21.it
2. Calcaterra’s official website: https://www.danielecalcaterra.com
