Dior’s latest couture collection, titled “Craft of Thought,” is a tribute to the legendary Josephine Baker and other Black artists who defied stereotypes and flourished during the Jazz Age. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative mind behind the collection, used contemporary fabrics to reimagine the wardrobes of these trailblazing individuals.
The couture show, held at the Rodin Museum in Paris, was a collaboration between Dior and American artist Mickalene Thomas. Thomas created magnificent fabric and sequin tableaux depicting Baker, as well as influential figures like Lena Horne, Dorothy Dandridge, Nina Simone, Naomi Sims, and Eartha Kitt. These women shattered barriers and paved the way for future Black artists in various artistic realms.
Drawing inspiration from the black-and-white photography of the era, the collection predominantly featured these monochromatic colors, along with gold and silver, which were often associated with Baker’s performances. The show commenced with a daring black satin swimsuit adorned with a silk dressing gown, showcasing a black diamond stitch lapel. The collection then showcased elegant silk velvet evening dressing coats and distinguished double-breasted coats. Notably, a significant number of models of color graced the runway, many of whom were new to the world of haute couture.
Chiuri’s exceptional editing skills were showcased through wool day dresses and pleated jackets exuding stylish restraint. However, the true essence of the show came alive during the evening segment, where crumpled and burnished radzimir silk cocktails, beaded ivory silk tops and skirts, and an array of semi-sheer and transparent looks took center stage. These designs perfectly captured the spirit of Baker, who famously performed in a skirt made entirely of bananas and multiple strands of pearls.
The entire Dior collection featured modernist super-light fabrics meticulously crafted by Dior’s legendary couture atelier. Metallic silver and burnished gold columns were particularly breathtaking. It is easy to imagine the likes of Baker, Dandridge, and Kitt reveling in these garments. When summer arrives, Dior’s dedicated clientele will undoubtedly be eager to adorn themselves in these exquisite creations.
In a pre-show interview, Maria Grazia highlighted the significance of Josephine Baker and the impact she had on her personal journey. Baker arrived in Paris searching for opportunities for self-expression but was initially disappointed by the limited and stereotypical representations of Black women in the entertainment industry. Determined to challenge these preconceptions, Baker broke free from the constraints of her time. Embracing France for its culture that protected and encouraged freedom of expression, she eventually became a French citizen, raised her children in the country, joined the Resistance, and was laid to rest in the Pantheon. Her life was truly extraordinary.
Josephine Baker garnered admiration from artistic luminaries such as Picasso and Cocteau and even enjoyed the company of Hemingway. As Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled this collection, she not only acknowledged Baker’s indelible mark on history but also established her as a unique muse of couture.
In a fashion industry where stereotypes can persist, Dior’s “Craft of Thought” collection serves as a powerful statement. It celebrates the courage, resilience, and artistry of women like Josephine Baker who dared to challenge societal norms and redefine beauty.
Useful resources:
1. Dior Official Website
2. Biography: Josephine Baker
