Dior has recently unveiled its latest collection, paying homage to the influential Catherine de’ Medici, who played a significant role in shaping French culture as the only woman to rule France. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of Dior, drew inspiration from Catherine de’ Medici and her extravagant events and fashionable attire. The collection’s debut came just days after Italy elected its first female prime minister, creating a fitting connection between the two countries.
As an Italian herself, Chiuri aimed to emphasize the shared cultural heritage between Italy and France through her work at Dior. Her fascination with Catherine de’ Medici began in 2008 when she attended an exhibition in Florence comparing the two Medici queens of France. Chiuri recognized Catherine’s understanding of fashion’s importance in representing her power and status.
To bring Catherine’s influence to life, Chiuri collaborated with various artists, each reflecting on the artistic revival that Catherine brought to France. Artist Eva Jospin created a stunning grotto and portico using recycled cardboard as the backdrop for the collection. The troupe of Imre and Marne van Opstal also delivered captivating performances, reminiscent of the elaborate balls Catherine often organized.
The collection showcased a color palette dominated by white, gold, and black, similar to Catherine’s wardrobe during her thirty-year period of widowhood. However, Chiuri reimagined Catherine’s style by using lighter fabrics, such as semi-sheer guipure pinafores paired with simple beige cotton T-shirts. Delicate needlepoint and embroidery were integrated into the designs, adding a refined sense of finesse to the garments.
One of the collection’s key features was the fusion of regal and raunchy aesthetics. Semi-sheer lace crinolines were paired with bras, and peasant skirts and ruffled blouses showcased a posh, hippie-inspired style. Catherine’s preference for stacked platforms was evident in the punky, multi-strap boots adorned with mountaineer’s ropes or spiked platforms.
Interestingly, the collection featured very few suits or jackets, yet it managed to remain cohesive and controlled. Chiuri’s ability to blend elegance with commercial appeal sets her apart as a designer. Her success at Dior is undeniable, and the latest collection is expected to be well-received by fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
In addition to the fashion elements, Dior collaborated with the renowned jacquard supplier Tassinari & Chatel by Lelievre. Founded in 1680, this historic brand has long been associated with supplying exquisite creations to European courts, including Marie-Antoinette in Versailles. The collaboration between fashion powerhouses and historical influences added depth to the collection.
Interestingly, the show took place just two days after Italy elected a right-wing government led by Giorgia Meloni, Italy’s first female prime minister. When asked about Meloni, Chiuri expressed disappointment that the left had fewer women in positions of power. She emphasized the importance of women leaders advocating for women’s rights, such as the right to abortion, gay rights, and divorce.
The Dior collection goes beyond aesthetics; it reflects on power dynamics within the fashion industry and society as a whole. Drawing inspiration from Catherine de’ Medici, Chiuri conveys the impact that fashion can have on representing one’s role and authority. The collection successfully blends historical references with contemporary design, showcasing Chiuri’s talent as a designer who is making waves in the fashion world.
Links:
– Dior Official Website
– Dior Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Vogue
