The recent Dior cruise collection show in Mexico City has taken the fashion world by storm. Held on May 20th, the event was highly anticipated, leaving many speculating about the location. Surprising everyone, Dior chose the historic Colegio de San Ildefonso as the venue, instead of the predicted Palacio de Bellas Artes. This choice holds great significance for Dior’s Creative Director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, as it was in this 16th-century Jesuit college that Frida Kahlo first met her husband Diego Rivera. Inspired by Kahlo’s art and the birthplace of Mexican Realism, Chiuri crafted a collection that paid homage to the iconic artist.
The decision to showcase the collection in Mexico was not only about Frida Kahlo but also about celebrating the rich culture and heritage of the country. Chiuri sees Mexico as a spiritual destination and wanted to capture its essence in her runway show. The event allowed her to showcase her admiration for Kahlo and Mexican art, resulting in a truly remarkable display.
Despite unexpected rain, the show itself was a spectacle to behold. The Bureau Betak agency quickly adapted and moved the seating area to the upper floors of the building to protect the guests from the elements. As the audience settled in, models graced the runway, emanating a modern-day Frida Kahlo aesthetic. With braided hair and statement eyebrows, they adorned butterfly-shaped jewelry, a symbol deeply associated with Kahlo’s art.
The butterfly motif was a recurring theme throughout the collection, appearing in various forms like necklaces, embroidery, and prints. Chiuri drew inspiration from an archival design by Andrée Brossin de Méré, seamlessly incorporating it into the collection’s looks. The butterfly patterns were complemented by toile de Jouy patterns depicting Mexico’s vibrant flora and fauna, resulting in a visually stunning collection.
One notable aspect of the collection was the blending of menswear and womenswear elements, with feminine silhouettes adorned with bow ties. This nod to Kahlo’s own style, who often wore three-piece suits, showcased her rebellious spirit and intellectual independence.
To ensure authenticity and showcase traditional craftsmanship, Chiuri collaborated with Mexican artisans, including embroiderers, weavers, and jewelry designers. Their expertise added a distinct touch to each piece, underscoring the value of these traditional skills in today’s increasingly digital age. Chiuri strongly believes in supporting artisans and educating younger generations about the importance of these crafts.
Beyond the fashion, Chiuri invited feminist artist Elina Chauvet to create an installation specifically for the show. Chauvet’s work focuses on the issue of femicides in Mexico and utilized red shoes as a symbol of the women who have disappeared. This installation served as a powerful reminder of the ongoing fight for justice and equality.
The show concluded with a poignant performance by Chauvet and a tribute to murdered women through the song “Canción sin miedo” by Vivir Quintana. This emotional moment added depth and significance to an already impactful show, leaving a lasting impression on the audience.
Overall, Dior’s cruise collection show in Mexico City was a resounding success. Chiuri’s exploration of Frida Kahlo’s legacy and Mexican culture resulted in a visually stunning collection with powerful thematic elements. The collaboration with local artisans and the attention given to important social issues showcased Dior’s commitment to preserving traditional craftsmanship and driving positive change within the fashion industry.
Useful links:
1. Dior official website
2. Fridamania – Frida Kahlo resource website
