In recent news, both Berluti and Brioni have announced the departure of their respective creative directors, Brendan Mullane and Alessandro Sartori. This signals a significant turning point for Alessandro Sartori, as he steps down as the artistic director of Berluti. The renowned shoemaker, Berluti, made the announcement on February 2, 2016, revealing that Sartori had held the position of creative director for almost five years. During his time at Berluti, Sartori played a pivotal role in the international development of the French company, as well as expanding the brand’s ready-to-wear collections. Antoine Arnault, the current CEO of Berluti, commented on Sartori’s departure, stating, “He has chosen to move forward. We made this decision together and we remain on very good terms. It’s like turning a beautiful page.”
Alessandro Sartori’s tenure at Berluti had a profound impact on the essence of the brand. From his initial ready-to-wear collection in November 2011 to his final collection showcased on January 22, 2016, at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris, Sartori, known as the most creative tailor in Italy, breathed new life into Berluti’s ready-to-wear offerings. In an interview on lvmh.fr, Sartori expressed his gratitude for the opportunity to work at Berluti, stating, “I must say that I feel very lucky to have met LVMH and Berluti. What designer wouldn’t dream of working in the Maison’s workshops, with their walls steeped in history and such a unique atmosphere, surrounded by the best talent in every field? I have the rare privilege of having unwavering support and all the means to work with one single objective: to produce the best.”
Brioni also announced the departure of its creative director, Brendan Mullane. After working with esteemed fashion houses such as Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, and Givenchy, Mullane assumed the role of creative director at Brioni in 2012 and held the position until January 2016. Mullane’s primary aim was to introduce a more modern interpretation of Brioni’s style. His innovative approach can be seen in the slim double-breasted suits, matte cashmere sweatshirts, multi-pocket jackets and parkas, as well as cardigans and oversized sweaters with protective collars. Under Mullane’s leadership, Brioni experienced a reinvigoration in its collections, resulting in a chic and timeless wardrobe. Mullane reflected on his time at Brioni, saying, “For the past two and a half years, I have been tasked with creating a modern language for this house renowned for its tradition and craftsmanship. An elegantly sophisticated wardrobe.”
While some sources claim that the departures were mutually agreed upon, the news came as a surprise to many, including employees of both Maison. Neither Berluti nor Brioni has announced any replacements for the creative director positions. It’s worth noting that the fashion industry has seen numerous changes and shifts since the end of 2015, mirroring the fluctuations in the French government.
Useful links:
– Berluti: https://www.berluti.com/en/
– Brioni: https://www.brioni.com/
