Deeny’s Dozen: The 12 Best Collections of the Season
The recent runway season showcased a renaissance of elegance in the fashion world, as designers and brands aimed to captivate new audiences after the somber period of the pandemic. Spanning from February 10 to March 7, with more than 300 shows across the four fashion capitals, this season marked the busiest since the start of the pandemic. The month-long fashion extravaganza also saw a resurgence of Asian movie stars and K-Pop icons, who flocked to Paris and Milan alongside their entourages. It was a triumphant season, with established designers delivering outstanding displays of creativity and a new wave of emerging talents making their mark. Here, we present the 12 most unforgettable collections of the season, listed in alphabetical order: Deeny’s Dozen.
Alexander McQueen:
Undeniably the highlight of the year’s tailoring tutorials, with brilliant silhouettes and daring anatomical prints. Sarah Burton showcased her unrivaled fashion vision, reaffirming her position as a leader in the industry.
Bottega Veneta:
This collection served as a visual feast, paying homage to carnival culture. It artfully explored the concept of power dressing, featuring technically remarkable garments constructed from intricately woven fabrics and exquisitely shaved leather. The climactic showcase of feather-light dress shapes, including halter necks, junipers, shirt dresses, poufs, and ball gowns, made a stunning statement.
Courrèges:
Under the visionary guidance of creative director Nicolas di Felice, Courrèges took a playful, funky, and futuristic turn. The collection showcased an array of cocoon coats, hoodies, and jackets in an inventive blend of leather, latex, wool check, and Courrèges’ signature patent plastic. A di Felice-designed Courrèges piece is a must-have addition to any fashion-forward wardrobe.
Durazzi:
Despite its limited audience, the Durazzi show felt like a pivotal moment in the rise of Ilenia Durazzi. The collection seamlessly fused architectural elements with equestrian style, featuring horse prints, grommeted coats, experimental felt coats, and Navajo pants. The inclusion of conceptual horse-blankets positioned on iron racks and the presence of white horses grazing in the garden elevated the show to a realm of elegance, nostalgia, and inspiration.
Erdem:
Erdem Moralioglu never fails to impress, and this season was no exception. The collection, inspired by the romantic era of Victoriana, presented exquisitely embellished interpretations of distressed damsels. As the most significant designer to emerge from Canada, Erdem brought a touch of couture to London Fashion Week.
Khaite:
Catherine Holstein, the designer behind Khaite, undeniably holds the title of “designer of the moment” in the United States. Her collection exuded an air of cerebral creativity and success. The latest show, held at the debut Soho flagship, showcased bold statement coats made from tough and chic leather, adorned with prominent buttons and powerful shoulders, emanating a sense of grandeur.
Loewe:
Receiving critical acclaim, Loewe’s collection stood out as the highlight of the season in Paris. The conceptual, cool, and clever designs were impeccably crafted from durable Spanish materials, particularly raw suedes that added a distinctive texture. The show’s captivating staging in a white box filled with confetti sculptures by Lara Favaretto at the Chateau de Vincennes solidified Jonathan Anderson’s position as the most influential designer in the industry.
Max Mara:
Drawing inspiration from Emilie de Châtelet, Voltaire’s esteemed companion, the Max Mara collection skillfully combined 18th-century silhouettes with a romantic attitude. Exceptional fabrics and posh punk elements defined the collection, marking Ian Griffiths’ finest show for Max Mara and epitomizing modern luxury in the fashion realm this season.
Miu Miu:
Miuccia Prada continued to push boundaries with another provocative collection. The show featured half the cast flaunting exposed underwear while dressed in haute bourgeois attire, ranging from cashmere twin sets to voluminous blazers. With a sense of risqué empowerment and a bold cast, including Emma Corrin and Zaya, this collection made an immense feminist statement, resonating with audiences worldwide.
Prada:
The dynamic duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons returned to their genius with a brilliant Prada collection. Inspired by uniforms, the collection incorporated intricate origami appliques, coveted jackets like burnished suede blazers, and showcased a modern aesthetic that captivated audiences in all four fashion capitals.
Proenza Schouler:
Proenza Schouler presented a hyper-individualistic collection that encapsulated repurposed chic. From drip-dyed velour tops to ethereal gowns crafted from ice cubes of dye and beautifully draped pleated dresses made from upcycled silks sourced from the duo’s own archives, this collection featured some of the most captivating and unique garments of the season.
Vivienne Westwood:
Andreas Kronthaler paid a heartfelt tribute to the late Vivienne Westwood with an emotional collection that celebrated Westwood’s iconic DNA, including elements of punk, Anglomania, Restoration, and the picturesque English countryside. The show served as a triumphant statement, showcasing Kronthaler’s talent and drive to keep the house of Vivienne Westwood relevant and influential in the future.
This season’s collections serve as a testament to the indomitable spirit and boundless creativity of the fashion industry. As the world slowly emerges from the shadow of the pandemic, these designers have demonstrated that fashion can continue to inspire and captivate audiences by offering glimpses of hope and beauty during uncertain times.
Useful Links:
Miu Miu Fall 2022 RTW
Fashion Week 2022 Recap by The New York Times
