De Beers Group and Couture joined forces in New York to celebrate and promote diversity in the fine jewelry industry. The event, organized by Couture DAC (Diversity Action Council), showcased the talents of young BIPOC designers and underscored the significance of inclusivity in the industry.
In the wake of George Floyd’s murder and the subsequent Black Lives Matter protests, the fashion and design communities have been undergoing a transformation. They have become more introspective, reevaluating their practices, and striving for greater diversity and representation. Several initiatives such as the Fifteen Percent Pledge, the CFDA Impact: Black in Fashion Council, and Harlem’s Fashion Row have emerged to support BIPOC designers and entrepreneurs.
The fine jewelry industry has also embraced these changes. Couture, an esteemed annual fine jewelry show in Las Vegas, established the Diversity Action Council in 2020. This council comprises industry leaders committed to promoting diversity, providing mentorship, and offering support to young BIPOC designers. De Beers, in December 2021, extended its resources to the platform, further expanding its impact.
To honor the latest group of jewelry creatives supported by Couture DAC, De Beers and the trade show hosted a dinner in New York. Notable guests included Eric Ford, a DAC board member and a buyer for Neiman Marcus’s precious jewelry department. Sally Morrison, De Beers’ PR director for natural diamonds, addressed the attendees, explaining the company’s involvement in promoting diversity.
Morrison emphasized that De Beers recognized the need to do more throughout the jewelry supply chain to demonstrate the company’s values. Alongside supporting the Couture DAC, De Beers initiated the #BlackisBrilliant partnership with RAD Red Carpet Advocacy. This collaboration involved financing BIPOC designers to create exceptional pieces and collaborate with celebrity stylists for red carpet events. De Beers also partnered with Blue Nile for the Ten/Ten project, which presented engagement rings designed by ten talented individuals and sold on an e-commerce site.
As part of their engagement with the Couture DAC, De Beers provided resources and funding for young BIPOC designers to create fine jewelry collections for the Radiance initiative. Among the participants were Angely Martinez, Ashley Thorne (A.M. Thorne), Jules Kim (Bijules), Kassandra Gordon (KLG Jewellery), Khadijah Fulton (White/Space Jewelry), Lola Fenhirst, Lorraine West, Maggi Simpkins, Melanie Eddie, Olivia Shih, Sara Bautista, Viviana Langhoff, and Zulaikha Aziz (Mazahri).
Access to the jewelry industry has historically been limited to those born into it or those with significant capital. Lorraine West, a jeweler who participated in the DAC program, expressed how it positively impacted her business and opened up new opportunities. She emphasized the urgency to address the industry’s inequalities and provide resources to support BIPOC designers in creating their collections.
Gannon Brousseau, the executive vice president of Emerald, the group that owns and operates the Couture tradeshow, described the process of pairing young designers with established ones. He stressed the importance of finding designers who share similar aesthetics and values. The partnerships were carefully curated, with a focus on artistic viewpoints and shared concerns such as the environmental impact of mining.
The event also applauded BIPOC graphic design, recognizing the contribution of designer Toga Cox, who worked on the visuals for the #BlackisBrilliant campaign and the Radiance collection. Cox has also been selected to revive the iconic ‘Seize the Day’ campaign as part of De Beers’ ‘A Diamond is Forever’ campaign. Including diverse voices in the creative process has strengthened the work and enhanced the brand’s image.
The event in New York served as a testament to the progress being made in the fine jewelry industry, embracing diversity and promoting inclusion. Through initiatives like the Couture DAC and partnerships with organizations like De Beers, young BIPOC designers are receiving the support and opportunities they need to thrive in the industry. As the industry continues to evolve, it remains crucial to foster an environment where creativity and talent can flourish, regardless of background or circumstances.
Useful links:
1. Couture DAC
2. De Beers Group
