Daniel Lee’s debut collection for Burberry was highly anticipated and important for the brand. The collection embraced Britishness, drawing inspiration from English roses, medieval knights, plaid, and the iconic Burberry trench coat. Burberry holds a significant role in the UK luxury industry as its only truly global mega brand, and local reviewers have a great reverence for it.
Lee’s collection took a unique and unconventional approach to Burberry’s archives, presenting a bold and daring vision for the brand. The show was attended by a star-studded crowd, creating an atmosphere with spacey industrial music in a dark and moody setting. Each seat had a rubber hot water bottle covered in wool plaid, hinting at Lee’s expectation of a harsh winter in 2023.
The collection featured a variety of coats, including padded trench coats, faux fur parkas, and oversized puffers, creating a sense of trapper gardening chic. Lee played with multiple logos and signifiers, reviving the Prorsum label throughout the collection. Abstract prints and patterns, such as the English rose, added whimsy and personality to the garments and accessories.
Lee also showcased a range of shoes, from spike-heeled boots covered in faux fur to hiking boots with the Prorsum logo on their soles. He aimed to create functional and durable clothing that captures the essence of people on the go. Many of the trench coats were made in Britain using century-old fabrics reissued in lighter variations for the summer.
Overall, Lee’s debut collection received high praise, with Burberry’s former creative director, Christopher Bailey, commending him for embracing the brand’s eccentricity. Lee sees Burberry as a cultural expression of the UK’s artistic creativity and aims to celebrate the diversity and talent found in London.
To celebrate his debut, Lee hosted a cocktail party at an 18th-century pub, attended by DJ EZ. The collection was foreshadowed by a diverse ad campaign featuring prominent Brits such as Raheem Sterling and Vanessa Redgrave. While still a work in progress, experts believe Burberry is back under Lee’s creative direction.
Useful links:
1. Burberry Official Website
2. Burberry Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Vogue
