The ULTIMZ Journal’s Club of Chronicles is proud to present a new column by Ramata Diallo, a marketing strategy consultant at Fashion Consulting Paris. In this exclusive column, Diallo shines a spotlight on the showcasing of local craftsmanship in the city of Bargny, located approximately thirty kilometers from Dakar, the capital of Senegal.
At the heart of Bargny, Mère Diouf and her team of talented dyers have created a true laboratory of colors, where they experiment with different materials and dye concentrations to produce unique tie-dye designs. This creative process has been passed down through generations and involves several steps. First, the raw fabric is soaked in an initial dye preparation bath. Once dry, the fabric is tied using specific techniques to create various patterns, such as linear, circular, or random designs. The tied fabric is then dipped into successive dye baths, resulting in the vibrant alternating colors characteristic of tie-dye. Finally, the fabric is dried and ironed in preparation for the meeting with the designer or fabric merchant who placed the order.
The fabric treatment workshops in Bargny are typically open-air, and the pace of work varies depending on the seasons, with most activity concentrated during the dry season. Dyers and designers work collaboratively to create unique limited edition variations. They conduct several trials to validate prototypes before production begins. Hélène Daba, the co-founder of the Sisters of Afrika brand, frequently travels between Dakar and Bargny to place fabric orders. Tie-dye is deeply ingrained in the brand’s DNA, and it serves as a powerful differentiating factor. The commitment to offering limited edition handmade pieces positions Sisters of Afrika as a high-end brand and resonates with consumers beyond the continent.
The impact of collaborations with influential personalities extends beyond brand promotion. In May 2019, Beyoncé Knowles wore the brand’s iconic “Flora” dress, garnering significant global attention. The recognition of Made in Africa is amplified through such partnerships, contributing to the elevation of African craftsmanship worldwide.
Established in 2013, Sisters of Afrika has established a successful and responsible business model. The brand is distributed in concept stores across major African cities like Bamako and Abidjan. Additionally, Sisters of Afrika operates a website that allows customers outside of the continent to purchase their unique Made in Africa collection pieces. In Dakar, the showroom/boutique/photo studio located on Cheikh Anta Diop Avenue serves as a space for measuring and alterations while also facilitating content creation for social media and the website. The brand constantly refreshes its limited edition collections, prioritizing meeting the individuality needs of discerning fashion consumers rather than catering to mass consumption.
The brand owners of fashion businesses in Africa understand cost structures and pragmatically adjust budget allocation based on revenue. Self-financing plays a crucial role in business development, and entrepreneurs focus on selling their entire production in “ready for alterations” form. Custom orders are fulfilled within deadlines, ensuring quality service and job security for everyone involved in the process. These brand owners contribute to the preservation of local commerce values, allowing the fashion industry to structure itself locally over time.
One distinctive trait of “100% Made in Africa” brands is their commitment to developing collections with materials manufactured on the continent. These brands prioritize preserving expertise and considering the entire value chain. Fashion businesses in Africa must consistently master the manufacturing process, which is a creative challenge. For example, Sisters of Afrika recently introduced their first collection of garments made from cotton sourced in Senegal. Hélène Daba personally visited a cotton production plant located 200 kilometers southeast of Dakar to select fabrics for her collection. Investments in research and development, as well as close collaboration with local cotton producers, dyers, and master tailors, were crucial in achieving this ambitious goal.
The fashion leaders in Africa skillfully manage various commitments, ranging from attending fashion shows and fittings with loyal customers to overseeing the production process. They work tirelessly to structure an industry that faces external competition, such as the importation of second-hand clothing and the availability of a wide selection of fabrics from around the world in local markets. In this challenging environment, entrepreneurs dedicated to showcasing local craftsmanship approach the Made in Africa movement incrementally. They exclusively produce on the continent while sourcing materials from countries like China, India, or Turkey, and transforming them locally. This combination of traditional craftsmanship with industrial materials in a rich creative process allows them to develop a true value chain for local fabric production and offer 100% Made in Africa collections. These sought-after pieces are offered at accessible prices, ensuring fair compensation for everyone involved in the production process. The Made in Africa movement also ensures traceability in manufacturing processes, catering to an increasingly discerning and demanding consumer.
Here are two useful links related to the article:
1. Sisters of Afrika website:
2. Dakar Fashion Week:
