Paris menswear on Sunday showcased contrasting visions from Thom Browne and Celine for their Spring/Summer 2023 collections. Thom Browne presented a luxurious demi-cross dressing aesthetic in wool bouclé, while Celine, under Hedi Slimane’s direction, offered a retro rocker statement.
The Celine show took place at the Palais de Tokyo, attracting a massive crowd of at least 3,000 fans. Rockers, influencers, and K-pop band members, including Lisa of Blackpink, who is also Celine’s ambassador, attended the event, providing a major highlight. Lisa’s immense popularity, with her 78 million Instagram followers, caused a frenzy outside the venue, with fans breaking through barriers and screaming for her arrival.
Bernard Arnault, the richest man in Europe and owner of LVMH luxury conglomerate, which owns Celine, joined in the excitement, recording Lisa’s arrival on his mobile phone along with BTS’s V and Park Bo-gum. A group of security men and Asian influencers followed Arnault’s lead. Inside the venue, paparazzi went wild, capturing every move of the Asian stars.
The show opened with elegantly tailored blazers and tuxedos embellished with crystals, silver string, and pearls. These pieces were paired with shorts and Chelsea boots with large soles. Models sported a hairstyle reminiscent of early Roxy Music covers, with dyed and waxed back hair. Hedi Slimane showcased his preferred footwear, the Cuban heel cowboy boot, which is expected to gain followers. Despite some initial struggles, Celine has been gaining traction under Slimane’s direction, as evidenced by the smiles on the faces of Arnault and CEO Severine Merle.
However, the collection itself left something to be desired. It featured sequined monkey suits in bright colors and odd Stars and Stripes cable sweaters, which were misses. Even Slimane’s famous tailoring seemed off, with oversized jackets sporting shrunken sleeves. The repetitive soundtrack, featuring the phrase “You know people do terrible things,” didn’t help either. After the show, the audience was held back, creating a somewhat chaotic atmosphere.
Outside the venue, excited crowds waited for those who managed to escape the guards and leave the art space. Overall, it wasn’t a great show or outing for the renowned designer. Hedi Slimane’s strength lies in his ability to incorporate popular culture and art into fashion, but this collection felt like a mere reflection of his past successes.
In contrast, Thom Browne delivered an impressive show, showcasing the versatility of a gray flannel suit. The show started with five little boy bankers dressed in perfectly tailored jackets, shorts, wingtips, and matching briefcases. Icons, society beauties, and grand dames then made their entrance, pretending to be late to the show. Once seated, the cast toured the Automobile Club in Place de la Concorde, wearing wool bouclé in peppermint, pink, lime, and sea-blue, with metallic threads.
The collection featured blazers, mini jackets, topcoats, and redingotes, accompanied by quirky accessories. Models wore bouclé bras and jockstraps, paired with bumster skirts and shorts, revealing plenty of skin. Bouclé was also incorporated into loafers, belts, ties, and even miniature face jewelry shaped like anchors. The show creatively blended cowboy references with sophisticated Wasp codes, accompanied by a country-and-western soundtrack featuring a song about bucking broncos.
One standout aspect of the show was the cast holding small signs with their numbers, reminiscent of old couture shows. The signs were intentionally displayed out of order, adding an element of fun and whimsy. The final look featured a model wearing a bare bum bouclé wool cowboy outfit, performing a barn dance to Madonna’s “Don’t Tell Me.” The audience erupted in applause, making it the biggest cheer of the entire menswear season in Europe after 12 days and over 100 shows.
Overall, Sunday’s Paris menswear presentations presented contrasting visions. While Celine’s show drew in a frenzied crowd and had some strong pieces, it fell short of expectations. On the other hand, Thom Browne delivered a remarkable show, celebrating the versatility of a gray flannel suit and incorporating playful and unexpected elements.
Useful links:
1. Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Collection
2. Celine Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear Collection
