The recent Paris Men’s Fashion Week saw a stark contrast in styles between the shows of Rick Owens and Givenchy by Matthew M. Williams. Despite the differences, both American designers emphasized the importance of tailoring in men’s fashion today.
Rick Owens’ collection, held at the Palais de Tokyo, created a sense of Armageddon with the use of colorful smoke bombs and an overall foreboding atmosphere. The show focused on strict tailoring, with high-waisted and flared pants paired with intricately wound and knotted tops. Collaborating with Italian fabric maker Bonotto added a heightened level of professionalism to the collection. Notable pieces included jackets with power shoulders reminiscent of 80s designer Thierry Mugler, as well as a leather scarf with attached gloves and parkas that transformed into three-meter-long trains. The show was accompanied by an industrial soundtrack, further emphasizing the darkness of Owens’ vision. Adding to the theatrical ambiance was a mime clown dressed in a striped top, yellow boots, and an umbrella hat who performed in the front row. Owens also unveiled his latest shoe designs, including recovery boots for athletes and zany open-side padded foot boots. After the show, a gathering of loyal Owenites celebrated backstage, all dressed in black and thrilled to be part of the fashion cult.
Given the show’s theme, Owens’ bow took place before a monument honoring France’s fallen soldiers from World War II. The presence of fresh bouquets symbolized remembrance and honor.
Matthew M. Williams’ Givenchy show took place in the presence of a bronze statue of Napoleon at Les Invalides. The collection showcased impeccably tailored menswear with a strong influence from sports. Williams skillfully integrated evening looks and a minimalist cropped Eisenhower jacket, paying homage to another historic general who achieved glory in France. The staging at Les Invalides, the soundtrack created by Williams himself, and the modernist clothes all exuded a sense of chicness. Williams successfully utilized Givenchy’s resources, resulting in a show that would have pleased the house’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy.
The collection impressed with its clean silhouettes, featuring double-breasted jackets and redingotes made with hidden side seams. Oversized jackets and long coats struck a balance between grandeur and coolness. The intricately cut waistlines, gathered or finished with reverse-pleats, added a fresh touch to many looks. Williams’ innovative idea this season was incorporating bum-bags, hiking sacks, and backpacks into T-shirts, shirt jackets, and tunics. He also tapped into the trend of hunting and military-inspired waistcoats and flak jackets, infusing a couture twist into the designs.
Williams expressed his affinity for the concept of bags as garments, explaining that they can bring in something with scale and create a new shape. His ability to blend casual and formal elements, playing with modern archetypes like tech wear and barracudas, resulted in interesting and compelling pieces showcased in the collection.
During his three-year tenure at Givenchy, Williams has made the brand’s menswear highly sought after. The show attracted an eclectic front row, including Tyra and Jerry Lorenzo of Fear of God, as well as pink-haired K-Pop stars. The collection was viewed against walls adorned with plaques honoring regiments and fallen heroes, adding to the show’s powerful atmosphere. Williams’ tenure at Givenchy shows no signs of slowing down, as he continues to breathe new life into the brand.
Useful links:
1. Givenchy Spring 2022 Menswear
2. Rick Owens Spring 2022 Menswear
