Paris Fashion Week showcased a collision of diverse styles and fashion worlds, with Lemaire, Walter Van Beirendonck, and Louis-Gabriel Nouchi taking center stage. Each designer offered a unique and captivating take on menswear, leaving fashion enthusiasts spoiled for choice.
Lemaire’s collection embraced a cozy and chic aesthetic, perfectly suited for the cold winter weather. Held at the Sorbonne’s Jussieu campus, the venue provided an arctic cold backdrop that complemented Lemaire’s designs. As guests entered, they were greeted with comforting elements such as tea, coffee, mini hot-water bottles, and blankets to keep warm throughout the show. The models gracefully walked across the vast courtyard, creating a well-rehearsed ballet accompanied by the hum of city traffic. Lemaire’s collection featured protective coats, down gilets, thick sweaters, and wool or leather trousers. With fluid lines and warm materials, the designs exuded an easy-going yet business-like attitude. The color palette remained neutral and autumnal, with occasional bursts of red, blue-grey, and leaf green.
Walter Van Beirendonck’s show was truly worth the wait, as his gentle aliens graced the red carpet of the Salle Wagram auditorium. The models sported rubber suction pads on their heads, arms, and torsos, creating a futuristic and otherworldly atmosphere. Chic tweed suits and monochrome vinyl outfits in vibrant colors added to the extraterrestrial aesthetic. Standout elements included inflatable accessories made of transparent plastic, some resembling life-jacket-like coats. Fishing nets adorned with crystals and fishnet stockings further enhanced the marine theme. Faux leather jackets and voluminous pants completed the collection. Van Beirendonck’s signature anti-militarist sentiment shone through his slogans, adding a deeper layer of meaning to his designs.
Louis-Gabriel Nouchi took a completely different approach, immersing the audience in a horror film-inspired show. The crimson lights, blood-splattered faces, and ripped shirts created a chilling atmosphere that sent shivers down the audience’s spines. Nouchi drew inspiration from Bret Easton Ellis’s American Psycho novel and its psychopathic main character, using his designs to denounce toxic masculinity and violence. The accessories incorporated axes and chainsaws, but these elements were neutralized with recycled leather. The collection also showcased tailored businessman looks with 1980s-inspired wide-shouldered jackets and draped effects. Following the formal looks, activewear outfits featuring Lycra leggings were presented. Notably, Nouchi collaborated with Ecco Laser to create transparent skin-like leather items that added an extra touch of uniqueness to his collection.
Paris Fashion Week brought together these contrasting styles, offering an array of choices for the modern fashion-conscious individual. Whether someone sought cozy chic, gentle aliens, or playful psychopaths, there was something for everyone. The collision of these diverse styles showcased the creative talent and innovation that the fashion industry continues to embody.
As a useful addition, here are two relevant links for further exploration:
1. Paris Fashion Week Official Website: Explore more about Paris Fashion Week and its events.
2. Vogue’s Coverage of Men’s Fall 2022 Fashion Shows: Gain insights into the latest trends and designs from the men’s fashion shows during Paris Fashion Week.
