Friday in Paris gave way to a day of fashion debuts, comebacks, and an impressive showcase from a seasoned designer. Yohji Yamamoto, a fashion veteran, demonstrated the power and talent that comes with experience. His poetic and spiritual collection featured predominantly black garments, with splashes of pillbox red. The precise and deconstructed cuts created a feeling of isolation and rebirth, leaving the audience in awe. The mesmerizing show took place at the prestigious Paris Hotel de Ville, attracting fashion writers, editors, and notable figures such as Guram Gvasalia and Avril Lavigne.
On the other hand, Harris Reed’s debut at Nina Ricci was met with skepticism from French fashion insiders. The British-born designer presented a collection that left many rolling their eyes. The show took place at the former hall of Air France, conveniently located next to the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Reed’s collection featured towering models donning oversized tuxedo pant suits and exaggerated flares. These larger-than-life ensembles were accompanied by clouds of chiffon and organza, creating an exaggerated sense of theatrics. However, doubling the size of tried and tested ideas did not translate into greater significance. The collection failed to resonate with Nina Ricci’s signature DNA of flowery femininity and delicate draping.
Lucas Ossendrijver, on the other hand, marked a strong comeback with his third collection for Theory Project. The designer seamlessly combined couture-like elements from his past experience as the men’s designer for Lanvin, with Theory’s exceptional production methods. Ossendrijver’s collection showcased figure-flattering dresses crafted from bands of knit, wool, and silk satin. Additionally, fine wool V-neck sweaters with recycled nylon trim were featured, along with baseball jackets boasting contrasting mixes of recycled wool, leather trim, and silk matelassé sleeves. Ossendrijver’s aim was to strike a harmonious balance between being fashionable and avoiding the label of “basic,” as his former colleague Alber Elbaz once emphasized.
Christian Wijnants made a lasting impression with his elegant debut at Ullens, a luxurious destination for fashion aficionados. The designer’s collection captivated with its innovative materials and understanding of the brand’s aesthetic. Wijnants took bold risks by incorporating Japanese wool denim suits and caramel Prince of Wales check ensembles. The jackets featured unique design elements such as off-set buttons, adding a touch of individuality. To further accentuate the collection’s luxury, Wijnants introduced cashmere sweaters made from grated cashmere, a rare fabrication. Reversible shearling and suede bombers in soft orange and inky blue were also introduced, providing a refreshing and impactful perspective.
In conclusion, Friday in Paris was a day of contradicting debuts and triumphant returns. Yohji Yamamoto’s poetic mastery left a lasting impression, while Harris Reed’s debut at Nina Ricci failed to connect with the brand’s essence. Lucas Ossendrijver’s sophisticated collection for Theory Project showcased his incredible comeback, and Christian Wijnants’ classy debut at Ullens brought a new and impactful perspective to the fashion world. Each designer left their unique mark on Paris Fashion Week, solidifying their presence in the industry.
Useful links:
1. Vogue
2. Business of Fashion
