Comme des Garçons Hommes Plus recently held a breathtaking fashion show in an unconventional venue—an old, rundown office building in the 9th arrondissement. The atmosphere of the venue perfectly mirrored the deconstructed nature of the clothing designs, showcasing Rei Kawakubo’s artistic vision.
The show kicked off with a series of eye-catching boiled wool jackets. These jackets, with their shrunken and ripped appearance, were crafted with intricate detailing. Paired with culottes and pintucked pants, all in striking shades of white, the outfits created an irresistible and magnetic allure. Kawakubo cryptically mentioned in the program notes that white symbolizes prayer, adding even more depth to the meaning behind these creations.
After the initial lineup, the show took a unique turn with inside-out jackets. While demanding in terms of wearability, these jackets made a bold statement as the models made their entrance. The designs then shifted towards a London-inspired theme, with calico hacking jackets featuring intricate embroidery reminiscent of Pearly Men patterns taking center stage.
The grand finale of the show showcased Kawakubo’s brilliance in tailoring. Pale gray chalk-stripe suits, exuding a gangster allure, stole the spotlight. Despite being tailored for a poet, these suits bore a striking resemblance to Pete Doherty’s shrunken silhouettes, making Thom Browne’s signature cocoon-like designs seem ordinary in comparison. The models sported funky bleached white wigs, adding an element of playfulness to the overall aesthetic. The suits were accessorized with matching shorts or felty sweatpants, completing the standout looks.
Kawakubo, as customary, did not take a bow on the runway. However, she graciously greeted guests backstage, wearing a giant black coat with twisting tails and a large white mask covering her face. Her gentle eyes conveyed her appreciation to the honored guests.
The theme of the collection, as described by Kawakubo herself, was the “Spiritual World.” The ethereal quality of the garments perfectly embodied this concept. The soundtrack, featuring chorister tunes like ‘Anarkian Kuvajainen’ by Cucina Povera, added an extra layer of mystique to the overall experience.
While not a traditional vintage display, Comme des Garçons Hommes Plus’ latest show offered a captivating journey through the realms of semi-sacred style. Once again, Rei Kawakubo’s boundary-pushing approach to fashion left a lasting impression on all fortunate enough to witness it.
Useful links:
1. Comme des Garçons Official Website
2. Vogue Article on the Show
