Comme des Garçons and Noir Kei Ninomiya, two renowned fashion brands led by Rei Kawakubo, recently unveiled their latest collections in a captivating display of creativity. Presented through a video to an exclusive audience of editors and friends, these collections showcased a fusion of Charles Dickens’ dark allure and the intense drama of grand guignol.
The runway shows took place in Tokyo, within the CDG offices, highlighting Kawakubo’s ability to transcend the boundaries between fashion and fine art. Comme des Garçons’ autumn/winter 2021 collection featured striking garments, such as oversized bubble coats made from silk and calico, giant feathered cloaks, and imaginative tulle formations inspired by swans. The collection also included unexpected combinations, like pairing priestly soutanes with leggings and bovver boots, creating dramatic and unconventional silhouettes. The predominant color palette consisted of black, anthracite, and white, with inspiration drawn from Salomon x CDG running shoes. Kawakubo described her collection as a search for solace in the serene world of monochrome, amidst the overwhelming influx of color, sound, and information in our modern lives.
The runway looks were complemented by distinctive accessories, such as stove-pipe Victorian undertaker hats adorned with moth-eaten cut-outs or spider-web-covered toppers, designed by Ibrahim Kamara. The show concluded with the Brides of Funkenstein donning massive shards of tulle, leaving a lasting impression of haunting beauty and originality.
Following Comme des Garçons’ show, Noir Kei Ninomiya, Rei Kawakubo’s protégé and creative partner, presented an even more intensified fashion showcase. Models with meticulously styled hair graced the runway in oversized gowns and cascades of fabric swatches, radiating a moody aesthetic. The collection featured unconventional shapes made from classic Aran sweaters, a beloved design among Japanese designers, giving the impression of malleable armor. The show opened with crystal and metal space-age ceremonial robes, leading into globular metallic gowns, perfectos transformed with futuristic flair, and other elements referred to by the designer as “Metal Couture.” The show transported the audience to an otherworldly realm, evoking the ambiance of an intergalactic rave for an audience of aristocrats.
Both collections emphasized the artistry and creativity of Rei Kawakubo and her team, leaving a lasting impact on the audience. Notably, the designers chose not to take a bow at the end of the shows, allowing the spectators to fully immerse themselves in the breathtaking visual spectacle that unfolded before them. These collections beautifully captured the uneasiness and depth of emotion experienced during the ongoing pandemic, offering a momentary escape into a world of enchantment and imagination.
In summary, the autumn/winter 2021 collections of Comme des Garçons and Noir Kei Ninomiya revealed the visionary designs of Rei Kawakubo, transcending conventional fashion norms and pushing the boundaries of creativity. The shows perfectly blended the devilishness of Charles Dickens’ world with the dramatic aesthetics of grand guignol. The unique styling, innovative silhouettes, and meticulous attention to detail showcased the immense talent and originality of both brands. Despite the challenges posed by the pandemic, these collections demonstrated that fashion not only survives but thrives, captivating and inspiring audiences worldwide.
Useful links:
1. Comme des Garçons Official Website
2. Noir Kei Ninomiya Official Website
