Classicism with Many Twists: A Review of Olivier Theyskens, Stéphane Rolland, and Alexandre Vauthier’s Couture Shows
Haute couture has always been associated with timeless elegance and exquisite craftsmanship. In a recent series of fashion shows, three Paris-based designers – Olivier Theyskens, Stéphane Rolland, and Alexandre Vauthier – demonstrated their ability to take classicism to new heights with their innovative and contemporary designs. These fashion visionaries captivated audiences with their unique interpretations of traditional couture, proving that the art form is far from stagnant.
Olivier Theyskens, in collaboration with Azzaro Couture, took a modern approach to presenting his latest collection. Instead of the conventional runway show, Theyskens opted for a visually stunning video set in a rooftop garden on the outskirts of Paris. The futuristic vibe of the collection was emphasized by the models, both male and female, donning metal sequined suits in shimmering silver and copper. With liquid metallic tunics and sequined columns with halter necks, the collection exuded an edgy and avant-garde aesthetic. The use of advanced materials, such as a pearly man suit made from densely packed mini-seashell shapes, showcased Theyskens’ fabric innovation. The dark and industrial tones of the collection gave the Azzaro brand a rebellious edge, appealing to those who seek bold and daring fashion choices.
Stéphane Rolland, known for his opulent haute couture creations, presented a collection that celebrated classic couture with a contemporary twist. The designer’s commitment to luxurious materials was evident throughout the show, with gowns made of liquid gold-like metal threads, white wools, and sheer chiffon in rich plum and taiga green. Rolland’s signature sweeping pen sketches were transformed into garments that exuded Parisian style and sophistication. The collection included caftans, coat-dresses, and chiffon jumpsuits, adding a sensual touch to the overall aesthetic. What set Rolland’s designs apart were the exquisite clasps, amulets, and bracelets made from giant amethyst and crystal, giving each piece a unique and unmistakable signature. The homage paid to the late designer Thierry Mugler added a poignant and emotional element to the show.
Alexandre Vauthier’s couture show took place in a disused factory on the outskirts of Paris, providing the perfect backdrop for his experimental and avant-garde designs. Thrilling guests with a mask code, Vauthier ensured that everyone wore black masks provided by the designer, setting a mysterious and enigmatic tone. The collection itself embraced bold proportions, power dressing, and luxurious fabrics. Vauthier’s tailored pant suits in steely gray felt wool and power dressing double-breasted suits with micro mini-skirts added a modern twist to traditional silhouettes. Sinful red dominated the color palette, seen in high-octane sequined suits and flouncy ruffled cocktail dresses. The collection also featured statement pieces such as a striking red velvet pantsuit with power shoulders, bias cuts, rock star-inspired dresses, emerald green bandage dresses with revealing side-slits, and silver-screen goddess columns with pink ruffled chiffon trim. The sustained applause from notable guests, including Jean-Paul Agon and his wife Sophie, suggests that Vauthier’s influence in the fashion industry is rapidly growing.
Overall, the recent couture shows by Olivier Theyskens, Stéphane Rolland, and Alexandre Vauthier showcased the limitless creativity and craftsmanship of these designers. By infusing classicism with innovative twists and contemporary elements, they have proven that haute couture remains a vibrant and ever-evolving art form. These designers continue to push the boundaries of fashion, captivating audiences worldwide with their artistic vision and ability to redefine traditional ideas of beauty and style.
Useful links:
1. Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Collection
2. Azzaro Couture
