Fashion’s cruise collection season in Seville was elevated with an Iberian-inspired collection from Christian Dior, designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Known for her daring and bold approach to cruise collections, Chiuri collaborated with local artists, performers, musicians, and textile makers to create a collection that pays homage to various periods of local art and architecture. This season, Chiuri drew inspiration from La Madonna and Flamenco style, as well as Andalusian equestrian chic.
When asked about her fascination with La Madonna, Chiuri explained that her Catholic education and the impact of dressing the Madonna had on fashion sparked her interest. She emphasized the significance of La Madonna in Seville, where each neighborhood has its own Madonna that locals identify with as members of their own family. Chiuri also noted the unique wardrobes of each Madonna, tailored for specific saint’s days, seasons, or religious feasts. She mentioned the lack of exhibitions exploring the influence of La Madonna on women’s fashion, apart from the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s “Heavenly Bodies” exhibition, which primarily focused on the liturgical influence. Chiuri recommended the book “Ave Mary. E la chiesa inventò la donna” by Michaela Murgia, which delves into the influence of dressing La Madonna on women’s fashion.
Chiuri took to Instagram to showcase her vision for the collection, beginning with a visit to Santa Maggiore in Rome, the largest church devoted to the Virgin Mary in Rome. She explained that she started with her local Madonna as she symbolizes the Great Mother and fertility. Chiuri expressed her appreciation for the cruise collection season, as it allows her to reflect on fashion from a different perspective and explore concepts such as cultural appropriation. She gave examples such as the mantila, a shawl originating in Manila, made in China, and adopted as a Spanish stereotype in Mexico and Spain, as well as the fan, which has Chinese origins but has become famous in Spain and Venice.
The modern icons featured in Chiuri’s collection included Carmen Maya, who experimented with flamenco male moves and gestures while dressing like a man, and Blanca Li and her 40 ballerinas who performed live at the show. Chiuri described the fitting process for the ballerinas as the most challenging of her career due to their constant movement and their ability to create music through their actions and footwork, essentially transforming into musical instruments themselves.
Chiuri’s personal interest in horses, from her childhood riding experiences and vacations in Argentina, influenced her decision to incorporate references to elegant horsewomen like the Duchess of Alba and Jackie Kennedy. She explained that these style icons have a connection to Seville, where the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art is based. Chiuri highlighted the democratic nature of dressage teams in Andalusia, where they collectively choose their style of dress. She emphasized that their appearance is of utmost importance to them, with variations in cuts among different teams.
When asked about her goal for the show, Chiuri expressed her desire for the audience to experience beautiful emotions and positive energy. She stressed that the cruise collection is not just a show, but a massive collaborative effort involving the orchestra, ballerinas, show production, artisans, backstage beauty, models, and dresses. Chiuri appreciated the unique beauty that arises from working locally in southern Spain and the exchange of ideas, ateliers, crafts, and skills.
Regarding the late timing of Dior’s cruise collection show, Chiuri explained that this type of project requires its own time, and she is grateful that Dior allows them to showcase when they are fully prepared. She acknowledged the logistical challenges of organizing shows in remote locations like southern Spain but highlighted the beauty that emerges from this process.
In conclusion, Chiuri acknowledged that it is too early to speak of normality in the fashion industry. She recognized the difficult times humanity is facing, including ongoing conflicts and the restrictions on travel due to airspace limitations. Despite these challenges, Chiuri remains dedicated to creating exceptional collections that showcase her vision and bring beauty to the world.
Useful Links:
1. Metropolitan Museum of Art’s “Heavenly Bodies” Exhibition
2. “Ave Mary. E la chiesa inventò la donna” by Michaela Murgia
