Christian Dior once again wowed the fashion world with its latest haute couture collection, leaving spectators in awe of the breathtaking display of fabrics and materials. The collection, unveiled during Paris Haute Couture Week, drew inspiration from the philosophical study of fabrics and materials throughout history, as explored in Clare Hunter’s book “Threads of Life.”
The creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, expressed her fascination with textiles and the skilled artisans who bring them to life. The collection showcased a wide range of fabrics, including polyamide mesh interwoven with micro crystals and velour jacquard floral patterns created by Bucol of Paris. However, what truly stole the spotlight was the expertly coordinated color palette of the daywear looks, featuring mottled gray tweed and knits as the highlight. Chiuri’s attention to detail and practicality were evident in the numerous bar jackets, pea-coats, and blazer/cape combinations, all paired with bias-cut tweed bovver boots.
In a nod to Monsieur Dior’s iconic designs, Chiuri extended the bar jacket and added length to the full skirt, giving them a modern twist. The front row boasted the presence of movie star powerhouses Jessica Chastain and Cara Delevingne, further enhancing the glamorous atmosphere of the show.
While the collection boasted a total of 75 looks, there was a slight lull in the middle. It appeared that Chiuri’s busy schedule, including the recent cruise collection in Athens and preparations for the upcoming ready-to-wear show in October, may have affected her self-editing process. However, the eveningwear segment of the collection more than made up for it, featuring exquisite chiffon empire-waist dresses with trailing trains that would make any woman’s dream come true.
Chiuri also reintroduced a classic from the house’s archives, the Ludovic jockey hat designed by Marc Bohan in 1964. Renowned milliner Stephen Jones applauded the cleverness of referencing Bohan’s hat and predicted a revival of this iconic accessory.
The collaboration between Chiuri and artist Eva Jospin added another layer of artistry to the show. Jospin’s remarkable abstract impressionist installation, titled “Chambre de Soie,” drew inspiration from artists such as Turner, Bonnard, Robert, and Vuillard. The installation, crafted by Indian artisans who embroidered and sewed it, spanned an impressive 100 meters and will remain on display in the garden of the Rodin Museum for six days.
This collection flawlessly embodied the essence of Christian Dior, with its meticulous attention to detail, historical references, and celebration of craftsmanship. It was a magical and enchanting display of fantasy phantom-thread couture that left the audience captivated.
Links:
1. Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2021-2022
2. “Threads of Life” by Clare Hunter
