Charles de Vilmorin, the enfant terrible of French fashion, made his highly anticipated debut at Rochas during Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2022. The event was a gathering of industry elites, including iconic figures such as Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Anna Wintour. Held at the elegant Hotel Mona Bismarck, the show attracted a swarm of street photographers and fans eager to catch a glimpse of the fashion spectacle.
What sets de Vilmorin apart is his connection to French creative heritage. His grand aunt, Louise de Vilmorin, was a renowned writer and companion of André Malraux, the world’s first Minister of Culture. This familial tie adds an intriguing layer to his work, which reflects an essence of historic France. Drawing inspiration from gothic castles, dark surrealism, Jean Cocteau films, and the psychedelic aesthetic of the 1960s, de Vilmorin’s designs are a unique blend of elements reminiscent of a meeting between Miles Davis and Yves Saint Laurent, with an added twist of hallucinogenic elements.
As an artist and illustrator, de Vilmorin’s talent shines through in every aspect of his work. From the intricate pen strokes on the invitation to the imaginative sketches adorning the mansion’s windows, his artistic vision permeates the entire collection.
For his Rochas debut, de Vilmorin presented a range of looks that were both edgy and captivating. The show opened with a striking cutaway shoulder leather military shirt paired with a tinsel plissé skirt and golden pirate boots. This was followed by a medieval-inspired laced-up leather dress worn over a white smock shirt, complemented by bio-morphist red and yellow boots. The influence of de Vilmorin’s grand ideas was evident in the designs, resulting in an overall groovy aesthetic that drew comparisons to the iconic Vivienne Westwood.
One of the highlights of the collection was de Vilmorin’s innovative use of stiff tulle, which he attached along sleeves, shoulders, and trims to resemble fish fins. This otherworldly touch added a unique element to metallic rouched cocktails, form-fitting tops, and plissé dresses. However, the most striking pieces were the white poplin tent dresses and mannish shirts featuring de Vilmorin’s phantasmagoric sketches. The collaboration with stylist Camille Bideau Waddington added a touch of funky glamour to the overall presentation.
Although there were hints of similarity to de Vilmorin’s previous designs for his eponymous brand, it is important to recognize that he is still a young designer in his mid-20s with a wealth of ideas. His undeniable talent and unique perspective ensure that his career is destined for great success. Charles de Vilmorin’s debut at Rochas marks the beginning of a remarkable journey in the fashion industry.
For more information on Charles de Vilmorin and his debut collection at Rochas, please visit the official Rochas website and Vogue’s coverage of the show. //Rochas Official Website// //Vogue Coverage of Rochas Spring/Summer 2022 Show//
