Chanel’s latest haute couture collection, designed by Virginie Viard, pays homage to Coco Chanel’s love for lions in a unique way. Instead of focusing on one animal, Viard created an entire bestiary, featuring larger-than-life plywood and cardboard sculptures of various mythological creatures including Trojan horses, elephants, lions, mice, bulls, and more. These magnificent sculptures were the artistic vision of collaborator Xavier Veilhan, showcasing the brand’s commitment to blending fashion and art seamlessly.
One noteworthy aspect of the collection was the incorporation of images of model Vivienne Rohner surrounded by adorable Corgi and Labrador puppies, printed on the program notes. The material used for the program notes matched that of the statues, adding a cohesive element to the overall presentation.
The show began with a group of drum majorettes, their outfits given a sophisticated twist. They sported pleated short skirts that were cut above the thigh and paired them with new Chanel jackets that ended at the waistline. These jackets, adorned with metal hunting dogs, offered a fresh and modern look to the ensemble. Tweed bouclé tunics and coat dresses were also embroidered with delightful images of Scotch Terriers and Labradors, further enhancing the playful theme of the collection. The models accessorized with circus master top hats, effortlessly blending the energetic spirit of a majorette with the timeless elegance of a Parisian.
The musical selection, curated by mix master Michel Gaubert, added to the lively and vibrant atmosphere of the show. The models gracefully strutted around the three-meter-high bestiary statues housed in the Grand Palais Ephemere, a temporary structure specially created for the event while the original venue underwent renovations.
For eveningwear, Viard showcased super elegant metallic houndstooth cocktails that flared from the waist down, creating a stunning silhouette. Black semi-sheer lace ruffled dresses and puckered chiffon dresses added an air of romance to the collection. Notably, there were gorgeous lace dresses with halter necks, embellished with golden thread deer heads and antlers, adding an ethereal touch to the overall aesthetic.
The grand finale of the show featured German model Anna Ewers as the bride. She donned a mid-thigh dress with a veil adorned with white doves, making a dramatic statement. The ensemble was completed with gold leather boots, exuding a sense of edgy sophistication. Viard graciously invited Veilhan to join her for the final bow, a moment that garnered thunderous applause from the audience, which included renowned personalities such as Roger Federer, Baz Luhrmann, and Caroline de Maigret.
In describing her creative vision, Viard explained that she wanted to capture the fun and physical freedom of a majorette by incorporating short skirts into haute couture. She likened her bride to a small bird and compared her to a heroine from a circus movie, perfectly encapsulating the whimsical essence of the collection.
During her four-year tenure as creative director, Virginie Viard has successfully injected a playful spirit into Chanel’s couture collections. Her collaboration with Xavier Veilhan and the incorporation of animal sculptures and whimsical elements in this particular collection aptly demonstrate her ability to push boundaries and appeal to a younger audience. Chanel’s couture show was undoubtedly a true spectacle, where majorettes skillfully tamed the bestiary, captivating fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
Useful links:
1. Chanel Official Website
2. Vanity Fair – Fashion & Style Section
