Chanel is leading the way in the luxury industry’s shift towards circularity and upcycling with its innovative Atelier des Matières project. Launched four years ago, this project aims to reclaim and revive unused materials and unsold or unused fashion and luxury goods. The Atelier des Matières offers luxury brands the opportunity to refurbish their scraps, fabrics, materials, and finished or semi-finished products.
Supported by Chanel’s research and development department in Paris, the Atelier des Matières is located in Le Meux, France. The facility employs 35 people, including a team of “valuers” responsible for finding second life solutions for the collected objects. It collects a wide range of products, such as ready-to-wear items, leather goods, and shoes nearing the end of their life, as well as unused materials like threads, textiles, chains, buttons, and leather.
Materials collected by the Atelier des Matières are sorted, disassembled, and transformed into quality recycled materials with complete traceability and a responsible transformation chain. The project operates in both closed and open loops. In a closed loop, materials are recovered from a client and returned once transformed, while in an open circuit, products are refurbished and offered to other clients. This approach allows for flexibility and customization, with orders often accompanied by pilot projects.
The Atelier des Matières has already partnered with external organizations to explore innovative recycling possibilities. For example, in collaboration with the start-up Authentic Material, the Atelier micronized leather bag offcuts to create aggregates of used materials for hidden parts of shoes. They have also recycled leather to create knife handles. In addition to the fashion and luxury sectors, the Atelier des Matières has expanded into the packaging industry, emphasizing the importance of partnerships with players outside of fashion.
While Chanel was initially the main client for the Atelier des Matières, it now serves eight clients. However, the project is not yet profitable. Chanel’s director of sustainable development and transformation, Eric Dupont, recognizes the need for profitability and is determined to make the project financially viable. Despite operating in secrecy, the Atelier des Matières gained visibility through its partnership with the Hyères Fashion Festival, providing materials to finalists in the fashion category and awarding the Atelier des Matières Prize to a talented designer.
Chanel’s Atelier des Matières is setting an example for the luxury industry by committing to the circular economy and adopting innovative recycling practices. By repurposing materials, the company is contributing to a more sustainable and responsible future.
Useful links:
– Chanel Atelier des Matières Official Website
– Chanel defies the circularity roadblocks (Vogue Business)
