Chanel Haute Couture transported us back in time to the enchanting era of the 1930s, with a contemporary twist, during its latest show held at the prestigious Etrier de Paris private riding club. This extraordinary couture collection paid homage to Coco Chanel’s iconic 1932 Bijoux de Diamants jewelry collection, which is currently being celebrated with a magnificent six-day pop-up exhibition at the Grand Palais Ephemere. The runway show was a feast for the eyes, featuring models gracefully parading through the paddock deep in the lush surroundings of the Bois de Boulogne, accompanied by the larger-than-life installations created by artist Xavier Veilhan, portraying faux clocks, medicinal pills, and majestic Zeppelins.
The front rows of the show were graced by the presence of numerous celebrities, including the likes of Sigourney Weaver, Soo Joo Park, Elsa Zylberstein, Marion Cotillard, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Keira Knightley, and Anna Mouglalis. The fashion showcased on the runway paid glorious tribute to the fashion trends of the 1930s, with an exquisite focus on proportions and timeless elegance. Calf-length skirts and square-backed jackets, impeccably tailored but not overly fitted, dominated the collection. The classic bouclé wools cherished by Chanel received a contemporary update, dazzling the audience with an array of colors such as sandy beige, dark raspberry, vibrant lime, Castleton green, and lustrous oatmeal. One particularly remarkable ensemble featured a slanted four-pocket jacket paired with jodhpurs, worn without boots and embellished with a double-winged necklace.
The middle portion of the show brought forth horizontally striped coats, which, although heavy in appearance, effortlessly graced the models. The collection then regained its momentum with the introduction of shiny and iridescent skirts, a delicate crocheted dusty pink wool coat, and a breathtaking Eisenhower jacket characterized by billowing sleeves. The grand finale of the show was nothing short of awe-inspiring, presenting a series of black chiffon cocktail dresses that exuded the epitome of Parisian couture elegance. These sensational looks were perfectly accessorized with diamond half-moon pendants, slinky bracelets, and a mesmerizing shooting star necklace reminiscent of the iconic Bijoux de Diamants exhibition, commemorating the 90th anniversary of the collection.
Virginie Viard, Chanel’s creative director, shed light on her creative process for this collection, revealing that her inspiration stemmed from the graphic and constructivist elements of the 1930s, which seamlessly complemented the inherent aesthetic of Chanel. Viard’s fondness for the color green was evident in the teaser shots released before the show, featuring renowned figures such as Sébastien Tellier, Charlotte Casiraghi, and Vivienne Rohner in a virtual landscape. The visionary designer sought to create garments that undeniably bore the signature of Chanel, expertly tailored to cater to the desires of today’s clientele, while also injecting a youthful spirit into her designs. This strategy has evidently struck a chord with customers, as Chanel’s revenues experienced an impressive growth of nearly 50% in 2021, reaching a staggering $15.6 billion.
Although the role of Pharrell Williams in the overall theme of the show remains slightly enigmatic, his presence reverberated throughout the event as he commences the show on a colossal screen with an extended mash-up video drum solo. It is possible that his connection to jewelry and fashion played a significant role in his involvement. The show reached its zenith with a captivating choral soundtrack, featuring the mesmerizing piece “Lucid Morto” by Pan Daijing, as Dutch model Jill Kortleve gracefully glided down the runway adorned in an effortlessly elegant wedding gown, accompanied by a delicately embroidered laced ecru shawl.
The 1930s were characterized by a tumultuous global economic crisis, resilient heroines, and visionary literature, and Chanel masterfully encapsulated the essence of that era, infusing it with an abundance of joy and a contemporary touch of modernity. The Chanel Haute Couture show was a staggering display of creativity and craftsmanship, truly transporting the audience to a bygone era of unparalleled glamour and sophistication.
Useful links:
– Chanel Official Website
– Grand Palais Official Website
