Over the past 48 hours in Paris, the fashion capital of the world, four talented female designers have captivated audiences with their distinct and contrasting visions. Victoria Beckham, Christelle Kocher, Cecilie Bahnsen, and Minuit have all presented their collections, showcasing a range of styles that cater to both strong and dynamic aesthetics, as well as more romantically inclined looks.
Victoria Beckham’s collection seamlessly blends the bodycon silhouettes that defined her early fashion career with contemporary cocoon shapes. A standout feature of her collection is the introduction of a new logo, subtly incorporated into various pieces such as knit stretch body-stockings, inner city trenches, denim jeans and jackets, and bright orange cabans. Additionally, Beckham unveiled her first full bag line, featuring soft architectural shoulder bags and sleek leather buckets with gold top closures. Her lookbook video masterfully captures the essence of heartbreakers and sizzling cocktails, with dark sequins juxtaposed against voluminous coats in colored wool bouclé. Despite recent concerns over the invasion of Ukraine leading to the cancellation of a planned dinner in Paris, Beckham’s fashion house remains creatively vibrant.
Christelle Kocher took the fashion world by storm with her latest street-chic designs for Koché, showcased at the esteemed Salon Napoléon of the Westin Palace. Drawing inspiration from soft rock gothic aesthetics, Kocher’s collection featured spiky ruffles, fishnet tights, slashed cocktails, and calcio tops that evoke powerful emotions. The show commenced with power silhouettes reminiscent of the 80s, featuring micro cocktails adorned with Flash Gordon shoulders made in golden brocade. The collection also incorporated comfortable and emotionally-charged couture pieces, as well as a co-ed show featuring paneled suits and high-waisted wide-leg pants. Kocher’s expertise lies in effortlessly merging couture shapes and frills with youthful party clothing, striking a balance between sexy grandeur and approachability.
Cecilie Bahnsen’s collection veered away from the practicality often associated with Scandi fashion. Instead, Bahnsen explored complex fabric blends and intricate folds, creating designs meant for walking or posing. Influenced by Danish poetess Tove Ditlevsen, the collection exudes a wistful charm reminiscent of poetry. Models gracefully roamed the upper salon of the Palais de Tokyo, donning scrunched-up jackets, boleros, pinafores, and dresses adorned with fabric petals or cut leaves. The collection features eccentrically romantic pieces in sugary pink, soft rose, aerospace orange, and electric blue. Standout pieces include a quintet of black outfits and an asymmetrical dress in crinkly brocade, creating striking fashion moments and evoking a sense of graceful elegance.
Minuit, a prominent Parisian ready-to-wear brand, showcased a collection that seamlessly integrated New York energy with French seduction. Paying tribute to iconic leading ladies of the 1970s, such as Charlotte Rampling, creative director Laurie Arbellot brought her experience from working at Proenza Schouler to create subtly tough chic looks. The collection includes patent leather jackets, trench coats with faux shearling collars, and mannish blazers, all exuding an air of confidence. Additionally, the collection features slip dresses with intricate straps, mesh column dresses with twisting strings, and semi-sheer organza tops worn with mini bras. Adding a touch of elegance, Minuit’s debut logo is seen on a matelassé satin scarf, hinting at a promising future for the brand. Overall, Minuit showcased a subtle, sensual, and sexy style that attracts attention and suggests continued success.
These four female designers have made a significant impact on the fashion industry in Paris, each offering a unique perspective and style that adds diversity and creativity to the ever-evolving world of fashion. Their collections allow individuals to express their individuality and embrace their own unique sense of style. As the fashion landscape continues to change and evolve, it is refreshing to see these designers pushing boundaries and contributing to the rise of female-led fashion.
Useful links:
1. Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2022 trends
2. Highlights from Paris Fashion Week
