In Paris, the Men’s Fashion Week for autumn-winter 2024/25 was a captivating event that brought together renowned designers Junya Watanabe, Paul Smith, and Juun.J, each showcasing their distinctive interpretations of menswear. These talented designers brought fresh perspectives and innovative techniques to reinvent suits and explore new possibilities within men’s fashion.
Junya Watanabe Man, an avid fan of fashion experimentation, took the art of trompe-l’œil to new heights this season. He skillfully deconstructed and remixed the fundamentals of men’s clothing, resulting in a collection of highly sought-after garments. One standout concept from Watanabe was a two-in-one sleeved piece, where the top extended into trousers with legs transformed into basques. His collection featured navy jackets paired with camel canvas trousers, as well as tweed jackets combined with faded jeans. Notably, Watanabe collaborated with Levi’s, Palace, New Balance, Carhartt, and Brooks Brothers, adding even more depth to his already remarkable collection. Additionally, Watanabe introduced two optical effects with his two-in-one overcoats, featuring wide leg bottoms superimposed on real trousers and classic coats seamlessly transformed into capes.
Paul Smith, on the other hand, took a softer approach to revisiting the men’s wardrobe, infusing classic designs with his signature twist. The collection showcased a fusion of casual tailoring and utilitarian outerwear, emphasizing sporting and country influences. Smith layered quilted jackets and waistcoats under coats and paired them with suits, shirts, and ties. Suits were cut slightly wider, with double-pleated trousers adding a contemporary touch. A highlight from the English label was their fine-striped knitwear and waistcoat, which stood out beneath a beige gabardine coat. Smith elevated the looks by incorporating dinner jacket lapels over turtlenecks, complemented by a removable maxi-pocket attached to the belt. Rich autumn shades like violet, aubergine, bottle green, navy blue, chocolate brown, ochre, and lime breathed life into the collection. Foliage motifs inspired by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé’s wallpapers created a playful camouflage effect, while abstract graphics adorned mohair jumpers, adding a touch of artistic flair.
Juun.J surprised fashion enthusiasts with a collection that deviated from their usual streetwear-futuristic style, opting for a more formal approach. The designer skillfully combined wide sweatshirts and Bermuda shorts with impeccably tailored suits, occasionally adding rocker jackets for a touch of rebel chic. South Korean designer Jung Wook Jun placed a strong emphasis on texture and materials, experimenting with wool, leather, denim, fur, and velvet. Noteworthy pieces included long denim coats with velvety finishes, latex turtlenecks extending into maxi dresses, and XXL hoodies crafted from neoprene. Jun pushed the boundaries of conventional menswear by incorporating tartan and denim hybrids, strapless mini dresses, and disheveled coats with silver fringes. The finale of Juun.J’s collection was marked by the unexpected elegance brought by smooth velvet coats and trousers.
Overall, the Paris Men’s Fashion Week showcased the immense talent and creativity of Junya Watanabe, Paul Smith, and Juun.J. These designers expertly showcased their mastery of construction, creativity, and experimentation, providing a captivating glimpse into the future of men’s fashion for the autumn-winter 2024/25 season. From reinventing suits to exploring new materials and textures, each designer presented their unique vision for menswear.
To learn more about the showcased designers and their collections, you can visit their official websites:
1. Junya Watanabe Man – http://www.junyawatanabe.jp/
2. Paul Smith – https://www.paulsmith.com/us-en/home
