Burberry recently made a stunning comeback with its first fashion show in over two years, showcasing designer Riccardo Tisci’s exceptional collection for the iconic fashion house. Tisci managed to seamlessly blend Burberry’s traditional elements with his own distinctive style, resulting in a truly remarkable collection. The show featured a mix of deconstruction, streetwear, and artful tailoring, presenting a co-ed collection that exuded glamour, quirkiness, and the essence of London.
Taking place at the magnificent Methodist Central Hall in Westminster, the choice of venue added a significant touch given the current geopolitical climate. The audience stood around beautifully adorned tables featuring Burberry dinner sets and glassware, creating an opulent atmosphere. Models descended custom-built steps from above the altar, while a choir of 100 singers provided a breathtaking musical accompaniment. The London Contemporary Orchestra added to the powerful ambiance with solemn compositions by Max Richter and Michael Nyman.
Tisci’s Italian gothic roots were clearly visible in the collection, showcasing stunning all-black goth rock leather and chiffon cocktail dresses paired with bold thigh-high boots and jockey caps. The inclusion of semi-sheer tops, matching bras, and tartan cocktails added a sexy and unexpected element to the collection.
In a post-show interview, Tisci expressed his satisfaction with how the collection truly reflected his own aesthetic and understanding of Burberry after spending three years with the brand. The show, which was presented outside of London Fashion Week, marks a significant moment for Burberry as it strives to recover from the impact of the pandemic. The recent collaboration between Burberry and New York skate brand Supreme, which attracted a large number of young shoppers to the flagship store, also showcased positive momentum for the brand. Additionally, Burberry is preparing for the arrival of its new CEO, Jonathan Akeroyd.
Tisci’s love for embellishments was evident throughout the collection, with effervescent crystals adorning classic country-house pieces like twin sets, cardigans, pleated skirts, and prim dresses. The designer also showcased deconstructed trench-coat gowns, scarf dresses, and a sensational piece worn by supermodel Bella Hadid. The collection featured a significant amount of evening wear, highlighting Tisci’s expansion of Burberry’s offerings in this category. The showstopping finale saw models with their faces adorned in crystals, adding a mesmerizing touch to the overall presentation.
During the conversation with Tisci, the designer spoke about the unique Britishness captured in the collection, emphasizing that British fashion is all about attitude and playing with ideas. Tisci not only celebrated the influence of aristocratic women on British fashion but also iconic male figures like David Bowie and Leigh Bowery, who revolutionized menswear. Wearing a black jousting-knight-print top, black pants, and sneakers, Tisci himself represented this British attitude.
COVID-19 pandemic also played a role in the conversation with Tisci, as the designer revealed having contracted the virus multiple times. He emphasized the importance of giving people the choice to participate in events when they feel ready. The men’s section of the show featured classic trench coats with added sweatshirt hoods, tartan shirts with hoodies, and jousting knight label athletic tops. Tisci also introduced androgynous elements, such as matelassé jackets paired with skirts and ankle-length skirts styled with waxed hunting jackets. A highlight of the men’s collection was a new duffle coat with four toggles displaced to one side. The show concluded with models wearing cozy knit, shearling, and faux fur coats, as well as donkey jackets flipped over into shoulder wraps. The final look showcased a classic Burberry plaid trench coat and a matching deer-stalker hat.
The women’s collection made a captivating entrance as models marched down from the altar, passing over white linen-clothed tables, creating a striking visual. Tisci took his bow with grace and a Lombard duke-like demeanor. The significant Methodist Central Hall, the same venue where the United Nations held its first general assembly in 1946, added a thought-provoking backdrop to the show. Reflecting on the recent invasion of Ukraine by Russia, Tisci expressed sadness and drew on his own family’s experiences during wartime in Italy. He highlighted the importance of respect and paid homage to the occasion by choosing classical music for the show.
The show attracted a host of celebrities, including Adam Driver, Carla Bruni, Kate Moss, and Naomi Campbell, among others. Tisci described the collection as being for a rebellious and mysterious girl, someone who defies boundaries while maintaining an air of elegance. The presence of these influential figures and celebrities further solidified the impact and significance of the show.
Overall, Burberry’s recent fashion show marked a triumphant return for the brand, with Riccardo Tisci showcasing his remarkable talent and vision. The collection successfully merged Burberry’s traditional codes with Tisci’s own unique style, resulting in a collection that embodies both glamour and quirkiness. Set against the backdrop of the Methodist Central Hall and with the inclusion of stunning designs and mesmerizing embellishments, the show was truly a spectacle to behold.
Useful links:
1. Burberry Official Website
2. Burberry Experiences
