Bucherer’s Transformation of Tourneau into a Jewelry-Inclusive Emporium

Swiss jewelry brand Bucherer made a bold move in 2018 when it acquired American brand Tourneau and embarked on a mission to transform the 118-year-old watch retailer into a jewelry-inclusive emporium under the Bucherer 1888 umbrella. Leading this ambitious project is Carina Ertl, the chief marketing officer and chief of digital at Tourneau | Bucherer USA. With 32 stores across the United States and Hawaii operating under different names, rebranding and revamping the entire retail network is no easy feat.

In a recent interview with FashionNetwork.com, Ertl discussed how Bucherer is reshaping customer perception and experience with the iconic watch brand. The flagship store on New York’s 57th Street, known as the Bucherer 1888 TimeMachine store, serves as the catalyst for the brand’s transformation. Ertl, along with a group of press agents, recently provided a tour of the store, which has been open since September 2021. The primary goal of the store’s design is to create a welcoming and immersive experience for customers by breaking down the barriers between them and the sales representatives.

The store is designed to resemble an art exhibition, complete with an ice cream activation, an Instagram wall, and a mosaic video wall spanning three floors. One of the standout features of the store is a custom-made Harley-Davidson motorcycle, adorned with watches and jewelry, displayed prominently in the middle of the main floor. In addition to these eye-catching elements, the 19,000-square-foot store offers complimentary coffee and cocktail bars on every floor, cultivating a relaxed and luxurious atmosphere. Visitors can also indulge in custom-created Bucherer ice cream and browse coffee table books on design and contemporary art from renowned artists such as Damien Hirst and Adam Parker Smith.

Bucherer’s belief is that relaxed and luxurious environments like the Bucherer 1888 TimeMachine store align with the desires of today’s consumers as the culture of watch collecting continues to grow. This laid-back approach also lends itself well to jewelry shopping, an area that Bucherer aims to expand. While Ertl did not provide specific details or statistics, she noted that the customer base consists of 65 percent male and 35 percent female. Bucherer sees an opportunity to attract more female self-purchasing clients through its jewelry offerings.

However, Bucherer’s focus on jewelry goes beyond simply expanding its product range. Ertl has plans to highlight and share the story of Bucherer’s jewelry, tracing back to its founding by Carl Friedrich-Bucherer in 1888. The brand boasts a rich history, with Ernst and Carl Eduard Bucherer playing pivotal roles in its development. Ernst formed an early partnership with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, while Carl Eduard became a prominent goldsmith. Ertl intends to engage VIP and prospective clients through cocktail parties and in-store events to provide them with an up-close experience with Bucherer’s high jewelry pieces.

To cater to a wide range of clients, Bucherer offers jewelry at various price points. The Pastello collection, made from heat-treated sapphire stones, offers affordable earrings. Similarly, the B Dimension group draws inspiration from Ellsworth Kelly’s art and falls within a similar price range. Classic earring styles are available for less than $1,000. Bucherer’s exclusive collections, such as the Bucherer Blue collections, feature one-of-a-kind creations in the brand’s signature blue hue.

Ertl’s goal is to educate the U.S. market about Bucherer’s commitment to quality. While Bucherer is well-known in Europe for its diamonds and engagement rings, renowned for their strong price-quality ratio and sourcing, the brand has been relatively discreet about the details of its history. Ertl aims to change that by sharing the story of Bucherer’s heritage and craftsmanship.

Rebranding Tourneau as Bucherer is no easy task, considering the various names under which Tourneau operates. Ertl explained that the decision to rebrand was made after surveying VIP clients and conducting focus groups. The objective was to strengthen the connection that Tourneau’s clients, many of whom span multiple generations, have with the brand by introducing them to the Bucherer story. The flagship store on 57th Street was the first to bear the Bucherer 1888 name, and the Miami Bal Harbour store recently reopened with the new design and branding. A flagship store in Las Vegas is also set to open in 2023.

Ertl emphasized that the rebranding process will be a gradual one, with all stores expected to be rebranded by the end of 2023. Some stores will undergo interior refurbishments in addition to the signage changes. Bucherer’s transformation of Tourneau into a jewelry-inclusive emporium is a significant undertaking, but with Ertl leading the way, the brand is confident in its ability to reshape customer perception and create a truly immersive luxury experience.

Useful Links:
FashionUnited – A Chat with Bucherer’s Carina Ertl
Official Website of Tourneau

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