Founded in Rome in 1945, luxury men’s clothing label Brioni is enjoying a successful rebound following the end of the Covid crisis. The brand has undergone a comprehensive reorganization and made significant efforts to improve its image, resulting in a well-received new boutique concept. The recent reopening of its Milan store is testament to the brand’s success.
As part of this rebranding, Brioni unveiled its newly renovated flagship store on Via del Gesù during the Design Fair. The store features the work of historic manufacturer MITA, with whom Brioni partnered to reissue a selection of carpets and tapestries created by the Genoese workshop in the mid-twentieth century. The boutique’s decor includes textile elements and furniture pieces from renowned artists Gio Ponti, Carlo and Tobia Scarpa, and Luigi Caccia Dominioni, spanning the 1930s to the 1980s. The overall concept of the boutique is to resemble a passionate collector’s apartment, showcasing the best of Italian design.
Since taking over as CEO in 2020, Mehdi Benabadji has seen significant sales boosts due to the new layout of the boutiques. Each renovated shop has experienced double-digit increases in sales. Benabadji highlights the brand’s exceptional performance since 2021, with consistent growth and a more cohesive image across collections, communication, and stores.
In addition to the store makeovers, Brioni has refocused its offer, concentrating on formal wear, which remains the brand’s core business. The styling was redesigned by Austrian designer Norbert Stumpfl in September 2018. Benabadji explains that the brand has reworked formal clothing to be more relaxed in terms of proportions and dressing style, incorporating lighter constructions. Brioni has also introduced sporty pieces in its informal ready-to-wear range, while giving special attention to leather goods, accessories, and shoes. Additionally, the brand collaborated with the Lalique group to create a perfume collection in 2021 and recently launched a capsule collection dedicated to women.
Brioni has also reviewed its production logic to improve efficiency while maintaining its craftsmanship. Despite reducing the number of craftsmen, the brand has kept its three production sites in Abruzzo, including its renowned tailors’ workshops in Penne, where 750 employees are currently employed. It also operates a shirt production unit in Curno, Lombardy, with 50 employees. Overall, Brioni employs 1,300 people.
Benabadji emphasizes that Brioni has preserved its high-end positioning without compromising its identity, which is strongly associated with formal wear. The brand is recognized as a reference point even among younger consumers, who visit the shops to appreciate the exceptional fabrics and intricate details of the handmade suits. Brioni has seen an influx of younger clientele in recent years, particularly in the United States and Europe, its largest markets.
Looking ahead, Brioni has plans to open several new stores in cities such as Dallas, Kyoto, and various locations in China. The brand is also exploring opportunities to establish a presence in Mexico and Dubai. In addition, starting in July, Brioni will take over its network of five shops in South Korea. Currently, the brand is distributed through 35 directly operated outlets, as well as franchise shops and resellers, including major international department store chains.
Useful links:
– Brioni Official Website
– Vogue Business Article: How Brioni is Reviving its Menswear Legacy
