The Black Lives Matter movement has achieved a historic milestone at Milan Fashion Week, as a group of five black designers had the opportunity to open the women’s Fall/Winter fashion shows. This marks a significant victory for diversity in the Italian fashion industry, which has been a long-standing issue. Although the fashion shows were pre-recorded this season due to the ongoing coronavirus pandemic, AFP was granted exclusive access to witness the designers’ preparations at Milan’s Circolo Filologico library.
Opening Milan Fashion Week holds great significance for Michelle Ngonmo, co-founder of the collective known as Black Lives Matter in Italian Fashion. She sees it as an important first step in making society understand that the “Made in Italy” label should be associated with expertise rather than just skin color. The designers, all of whom are Italian but born in different African countries, are ecstatic about the opportunity to showcase their talent and creativity on such a prestigious platform. Claudia Gisele Ntsama, a designer from Cameroon, admits to feeling a bit nervous as she prepares her stunning eco-friendly looks in pastel tones made from hemp. Meanwhile, fellow designer Fabiola Manirakiza, who experienced the devastating impact of ethnic violence in Burundi through her parents, views this moment as a rebirth for black designers. Ngonmo, along with designers Edward Buchanan and Stella Jean, founded the collective last year to address the lack of representation in the fashion industry, aiming to break down barriers and highlight the immense talent of black designers.
In the past, collections by black designers were often confined to Afro Fashion Week. However, thanks to the efforts of the collective and the global Black Lives Matter movement, there has been a growing awareness of the racism prevalent within the fashion industry. Carlo Capasa, the head of the Italian fashion chamber, acknowledges the profound impact of George Floyd’s death in raising global awareness about racism. As a result, the fashion chamber now actively supports the collective by providing mentorship on design and business skills, as well as funding their fashion shows and collections.
The black designers in this collective face unique challenges due to their gender and immigrant status in Italy. Joy Meribe, a Nigerian-born designer, explains that being a woman and an immigrant has demanded her to work twice as hard to prove her skills. Edward Buchanan, an African-American designer who has resided in Italy for 25 years, has persevered in the luxury sector despite facing racism on a daily basis. The official show at Milan Fashion Week signifies a significant moment for these designers, offering hope and providing a platform for their immense talent to be recognized.
This historic milestone represents a leap forward for diversity and inclusivity in the fashion industry. These black designers are breaking down barriers and challenging the notion that race should determine success in the fashion world. It is hoped that through this showcase, more opportunities and recognition will be paved for black designers in the future. Karim Daoudi, a designer born in Morocco, expresses his excitement, stating that it is truly a dream come true. He hopes that his shoes featured in the show will leave a lasting impact globally. With the unwavering support of the fashion chamber and the determination of these talented designers, the future seems promising for black representation in the world of fashion.
Useful links:
– “Black Designers Are Taking Power in Milan”
– “Designers Around the World on Building a More Inclusive Fashion Industry”
