During Fashion Week in Paris, Balmain made a powerful impression with its retro-inspired collection, which was filled with luxury and adorned with roses. The show, held at the Palais de Chaillot, drew in a massive crowd of fans and celebrities, necessitating a significant police presence to maintain order. The presence of notable figures such as Cher, Charlotte Rampling, Lucy Hale, and influential social media personalities only added to the excitement surrounding the event.
Rather than opting for a traditional runway show, Balmain chose a more intimate setting at the plush halls of the Palais de Chaillot, using the iconic Eiffel Tower as a dazzling backdrop. This season, the brand decided to separate its show sessions, hosting an afternoon show for important clients and an evening event exclusively for VIPs and the media. This shift in format suggests that Balmain is moving away from its previous large-scale show-events and the Balmain Army concept, embracing a more refined elegance that pays homage to the maison’s illustrious heritage.
Creative Director Olivier Rousteing delved into Balmain’s archives, drawing inspiration specifically from Pierre Balmain’s designs from the 1940s and 50s. Rousteing reinterpreted the label’s timeless codes, infusing the collection with vibrant colors and joyful designs. Departing from the black and white palette of the previous season, the new collection embraces a retro, chic lady-like spirit. The silhouettes cinch at the waist and flare out below, offering a range of short, form-fitting outfits, airy silk dresses, and long skirts in various pleated and gathered styles. The collection effortlessly merges clean, sharp lines with rounded and undulating shapes, showcasing short pleated hoop skirts and sculptural corset dresses.
Rousteing highlighted two distinctive Balmain motifs from the brand’s archives: polka dots and roses. Building upon the fun he had with polka dots in the winter collection, Rousteing designed elegant sheath dresses in white with black polka dots and vice versa, as well as blouses and pyjama-style sets featuring the graphic theme. However, it was with roses that Rousteing truly unleashed his creative vision. The collection was brimming with roses, overflowing from handbags and beautifully printed on silk and cotton dresses. Appliqués of giant roses adorned corset dresses, while intricate embroidery with sparkling stones exhibited the flower motif. Roses were presented in a range of materials, from leather to rubber, latex, porcelain, and even recycled plastic, embellishing garments with three-dimensional flower garlands bordering collars or climbing along the torso towards one shoulder. Additionally, Rousteing drew inspiration from garden trellises, incorporating their patterns on handbags and fabric-decorated shoes.
Despite a setback just 10 days before the show, where 50 Balmain looks from the new collection were stolen, the brand decided to push forward with the event. In a note of gratitude, Rousteing acknowledged his dedicated staff for their exceptional efforts in making the show happen, and expressed his appreciation for the support of friends, colleagues, and the police. Thanks to the police’s quick investigation, the stolen van and a few boxes containing the stolen clothes were recovered.
In conclusion, Balmain’s retro-inspired collection, enriched with roses, captivated audiences during Paris Fashion Week. Rousteing’s tribute to the maison’s heritage showcased a refined elegance that beautifully blended sculptural shapes, couture details, and vibrant colors. Despite the setback of the stolen looks, Balmain demonstrated its resilience and delivered a show filled with excitement and fashion-forward designs.
Useful links:
– Balmain Official Website
– Balmain Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection – Vogue
