Balenciaga, the acclaimed fashion brand, recently debuted its latest collection in Paris amidst heightened security measures. The brand had encountered a major crisis in December when it faced accusations of promoting child pornography. In the lead up to the show, invitations were distributed as tailor’s patterns in a unique fashion, with the exact location only revealed on the day of the event.
As the guests settled into their seats, they were greeted with cards containing a statement from Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna. In this personal anecdote, Demna shared how his parents had hired a tailor for him at the tender age of six, igniting his lifelong passion for fashion. The statement stressed the transformative power of clothing in expressing oneself and finding happiness.
The fall 2023 collection showcased by Balenciaga was a testament to Demna’s exceptional tailoring skills. The runway featured a range of impeccably crafted garments, including tuxedos and double-breasted blazers made from inverted men’s trousers, voluminous tuxedo coats, chesterfields with waistline trims, and intriguing combinations of page-boy shorts and double-breasted jackets for women. The eveningwear segment boasted bubble-shaped cocktails and elegant plissé floral dresses, seamlessly blending Demna’s signature style with the spirit of Balenciaga.
It is worth noting that the collection exhibited a departure from Balenciaga’s previous seasons, with minimal use of logos. The accessories were also understated, save for a few bags embellished with the iconic double B buckles. Additionally, some bags were cleverly concealed under flowing silk gowns. A particularly eye-catching footwear piece was a fascinating fusion of biker and medieval knight influences, featuring the delicate script of Balenciaga.
However, looming in the background was the controversy that unfolded in December when Balenciaga faced backlash for an ad campaign showcasing children in unconventional outfits and a document touching on the subject of child erotica. Initially, the brand attempted to shift blame onto the photographer, which only provoked further criticism. The pristine white box chosen as the venue for the show starkly contrasted with Demna’s previous presentation featuring bedraggled nomads. Conversations among the attendees revealed that many believed Demna had been unjustly targeted, attributing the incident to a lack of communication within the team.
Despite the controversy, Balenciaga’s front row was teeming with influential figures, and the presence of several buyers indicated the brand’s strong commercial standing. Nevertheless, the sight of an empty Balenciaga flagship store during Milan Fashion Week raised questions and prompted speculation.
Backstage, Demna appeared visibly shaken, likely due to the recent events. When questioned about the impact of the uproar on his creative process, he revealed how it had influenced his approach to the collection, placing a greater emphasis on tailoring and deconstruction. However, before he could delve further into his inspiration, Francois-Henri Pinault, the CEO of Kering, approached him and delivered reassurance to stay composed.
In conclusion, Balenciaga’s latest collection was a testament to Demna’s exceptional tailoring skills and showcased minimal logos and understated accessories. While the brand faced recent controversy, many attendees believed that Demna had been unjustly blamed. The strong presence of prominent figures and buyers at the show exemplified Balenciaga’s commercial strength. Despite the challenges faced, Demna remained determined and focused on creating a collection that centered on the artistry of clothing.
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