Bahrain, a small island nation situated next to Qatar, boasts a rich pearling tradition that spans centuries. While cultured pearls dominate the global market, Bahrain exclusively produces natural pearls and has taken extraordinary measures to protect this unique industry. In fact, it is the only country in the world that prohibits the cultivation of artificial pearls, which have inundated the market since the 1920s.
One can explore the beauty of these rare natural pearls at a jewelry store in Bahrain. However, acquiring these pearls is no easy task. Faten Mattar, an employee at a family-operated jewelry shop, explains that it can take up to five years to complete a single strand of a necklace by sourcing pearls directly from divers. In the case of larger, more valuable pieces, the process can take over a decade. Despite the time and effort required, Mattar believes that the allure lies in the fact that no two natural pearls are alike. Each individual who possesses jewelry adorned with natural pearls knows that they possess something truly one-of-a-kind.
Mattar is also one of the few women working in a family business that has stood for more than two centuries. The store offers a variety of pearl-studded items such as bracelets, necklaces, cufflinks, and more. To make pearls more accessible to a wider audience, the shop has created different lines, including designs for men and “daily jewelry” catered towards a younger demographic.
Similar to other nations in the Arab Gulf region, Bahrain’s economy was heavily reliant on pearl harvesting. Free-divers would spend months traveling on traditional wooden sailboats, known as dhows, to procure pearls that were prized by royal families in the region and European fashion houses. However, the natural pearl trade suffered a severe blow following the Great Depression in the 1930s and the emergence of cultured pearls in Japan. Cultured pearls, which are artificially produced in freshwater mussels, proved to be less expensive and easier to manufacture, resulting in a decline in demand for natural pearls.
Despite these challenges, Muharraq, situated in northern Bahrain, has successfully preserved its pearling cultural heritage. In fact, it is recognized by UNESCO as “the last remaining complete example of the cultural tradition of pearling.” The area boasts oyster beds and a fortress from which dhows would embark on pearl harvesting expeditions.
In order to authenticate natural pearls, young gemologists at the Bahrain Institute for Pearls and Gemstones (DANAT) utilize modern technology and their trained eyes to scrutinize these precious gems. One researcher even passes a pearl through an X-ray machine to identify its growth lines, a critical characteristic that sets natural pearls apart from cultured ones. Established in 2017, DANAT provides appraisals for both merchants and individuals, often revealing that their inherited jewelry contains cultured pearls, much to their surprise.
Beyond appraisals, DANAT also monitors the conditions in the water where natural pearls are harvested. With concerns over climate change, researchers at DANAT consistently gather data on factors such as water temperature, quality, and salinity to examine their impact on pearl production.
Bahrain’s commitment to preserving its natural pearl industry is highly commendable. Through the outright ban on artificial pearl cultivation and the promotion of appreciation for natural pearls, the country ensures that this centuries-old tradition lives on. Given the unique beauty and scarcity of natural pearls, it is no wonder that they continue to be highly sought-after gems in Bahrain and around the world.
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