AZ Factory, the fashion brand launched by Alber Elbaz and owned by Richemont, is entering a new phase of development following a year of intense and experimental collaborations. Mauro Grimaldi, strategic advisor to Philippe Fortunato, CEO of Richemont’s fashion and accessories division, discusses AZ Factory’s new business model and its plans for the future.
Despite the tragic passing of Alber Elbaz shortly after the launch of AZ Factory in late 2020, Richemont Group made the decision to continue with the project and invest in Elbaz’s vision of independent design and values. The brand, which currently employs around thirty individuals, is committed to maintaining Elbaz’s collective working environment and focus on fashion for women.
Under the new business model, AZ Factory is shifting towards a more collective approach, prioritizing solutions that embody the brand’s values rather than conforming to every fashion trend. The brand has also established a unique collaboration program, differentiating itself from other labels by partnering with designers instead of other brands.
In 2022, AZ Factory embarked on eight collaborations, making it a year of intense experimentation for the brand. These collaborations showcased AZ Factory’s versatility and ability to adapt to different creative visions. Now, as the brand enters phase 2 of its development, it aims to establish a solid business structure while continuing to experiment and collaborate.
When selecting designers to collaborate with, AZ Factory considers various factors. They work with young designers who have launched their own brands, as well as independent designers who are at a turning point in their careers. Additionally, AZ Factory collaborates with newcomers, presenting their collections during Haute Couture Week to bridge the gap between haute couture and the next generation of designers.
AZ Factory has also ventured into unconventional collaborations, such as partnering with the Milanese DJ collective Club Domani for a line of clubbing T-shirts and working with Sheltersuit, a foundation that provides sleeping bags for the homeless. These collaborations reflect the brand’s commitment to smart fashion and making a positive impact on society.
The brand presents its collections during pre-collections in January and June. Following the success of their collaboration with Lutz Huelle, AZ Factory has appointed him as the designer for their pre-collections. During Women’s Fashion Weeks, the brand unveils new projects with designers who have the potential to become permanent collaborators. Additionally, during Haute Couture Week, AZ Factory offers emerging designers the opportunity to showcase their mini collections.
These collaborations have led to commercial versions of certain designs, demonstrating AZ Factory’s role as an incubator for young talents. The brand not only focuses on producing results but also supports young designers who have the potential to become future talents within the group.
To become a permanent designer at AZ Factory, designers must closely collaborate with the workshop created by Alber Elbaz, which preserves his creative spirit. The workshop, consisting of a small team of talented individuals, focuses on experimenting with innovative ideas. Lutz Huelle’s collection has been well-received by the press and retailers, solidifying his place within the workshop.
AZ Factory sets itself apart from other brands by positioning itself as an art gallery specializing in fashion. They select designer-artists and commission them to create collections for exhibitions. As a small brand, AZ Factory relies on the support of Richemont but takes a different approach by investing in independent designers rather than heritage brands. The brand embraces innovation and aims to offer consumers something unique.
In terms of distribution, AZ Factory is not solely online. In addition to their e-commerce site and partnerships with Richemont’s e-commerce partners, the brand is available in approximately fifty multi-brand stores, including esteemed retailers like Selfridges, Printemps, and Saks Fifth Avenue. AZ Factory views these retailers as true partners who support the designers.
The United States is AZ Factory’s largest market, followed by France, the UK, and Germany. The Middle East, particularly Dubai, is becoming increasingly important, as well as Japan and China.
Looking ahead, AZ Factory plans to continue supporting designers and maintaining the element of surprise and creative chaos that Elbaz cherished. The brand aims to create physical spaces internationally at opportune moments rather than conventional brick-and-mortar stores. With its democratic approach to fashion, creative products, and reasonable price points, AZ Factory is poised to appeal to consumers seeking brands with new codes and a commitment to innovation.
Useful Links:
1. AZ Factory Official Website
2. Richemont Group Official Website
