The Armani Privé haute couture line, created by the iconic designer Giorgio Armani, captivated audiences with its mesmerizing collection in Paris. Departing from his usual non-color scheme, Armani presented a stunning array of vibrant rainbow hues, which added a refreshing contrast to his typically black and neutral palettes. The show’s invitation, adorned with a harlequin-print, set the stage for the runway’s pink, lime, and light mauve color scheme, creating an atmosphere of whimsical elegance.
In line with the current Paris fashion season, which has celebrated Black icons like Josephine Baker and Dorothy Dandridge, Armani made a deliberate effort to cast a diverse lineup of models. Approximately twelve Black models, highlighting the industry’s ongoing push for inclusivity, graced the runway. The show took place at the unique venue of the Garde Républicaine, a cavalry regiment’s headquarters, adding an extra touch of allure to the overall ambience.
Armani’s standout pieces for the day and early evening were a series of boleros, reimagined in various fabrics and styles. These tailored boleros, often with elbow-length sleeves, made a striking impression. Among the variations were a pink silk bolero with an undulating surface resembling diamond cut steel, a mint matelassé bolero paired with a seafoam green silk blouse, and a sugary pink jacket with a mosaic print. To add dramatic flair, many jackets featured thick black bands. These boleros were typically worn over peg leg pants or silk slimline jodhpurs, a trademark Armani silhouette.
Infusing a couture touch, Armani incorporated small hats, mini demi-berets, quarter corporals’ caps, and mesh conversation pieces as accessories. These additions provided a French flair to the collection, complementing the overall aesthetic.
The eveningwear took the show to new heights as Armani showcased densely sequined columns and slinky crystal-encrusted gowns. Although the models struggled to gracefully walk in these tight and elaborately embellished designs, the gowns were breathtaking. Featuring diamond pattern designs and echoing the sherbet hues seen throughout the runway, they added an extra touch of glamour to the collection.
In his program notes, Armani revealed that the inspiration for the collection came from the rococo interiors of Venetian palaces. He emphasized the importance of light and extraordinary embroidery in creating a sense of opulence. The garments were designed to be light, ethereal, and dazzling.
The show concluded with a well-deserved standing ovation for Armani as he took his bow alongside a group of towering models. While the collection may not have been as groundbreaking as his recent men’s shows in Milan, it certainly left a lasting impression. It is highly probable that many of these looks will make dramatic appearances on the red carpet of prestigious events such as the Oscars, as Hollywood has a penchant for baroque aesthetics.
Armani Privé’s Venetian-inspired, equestrian-infused collection was a true masterpiece that showcased the designer’s ability to innovate while still embracing his signature style. As the fashion industry continues to evolve, Armani consistently proves his relevance and creative prowess, solidifying his position as one of the most influential designers of our time.
Useful links:
1. Vogue: Armani Privé Spring 2022 Couture Collection
2. Business of Fashion: Armani Privé Embodies Equestrianism and Seduction
