Paris was enchanted by the timeless and chic fashion of AMI Paris as the brand debuted its elegant collection on the third day of men’s shows. The event attracted a dazzling array of famous faces, including Juliette Binoche, Isabelle Adjani, and Vincent Cassel, who were captivated by the successful booth and the presence of actresses Diane Kruger, Lou Doillon, and Laetitia Casta.
Designer Alexandre Mattiussi returned to the brand’s roots for the autumn-winter 2024/25 collection, emphasizing the timeless essence of a men’s wardrobe. The collection was unveiled in the early hours of the morning, symbolizing the awakening of the City of Light. The ethereal moment captured the transition from late-night revelers to early morning workers, with Parisians’ signature fast-paced stride.
Confident models strutted down the runway in robust-soled shoes for men and stylish ankle boots with wide straps for women. They emerged from the entrance of a stunning stone mansion, departing from the previous collections that celebrated romantic and bohemian Paris. This time, a more austere atmosphere dominated, reflected in the predominantly dark color palette of black, brown, and grey. Striking midnight blue ensembles also made an appearance.
Alexandre Mattiussi showcased a true return to tailoring, presenting a plethora of impeccably cut jackets, suits, and ensembles. Gabardine and thick wools crafted flawlessly falling coats, while pegged trousers exuded sophistication. The oversized look from previous seasons gave way to more refined proportions, featuring slim-fit models and blazers. The designer even brought forth a new, shorter length for the trousers, injecting a touch of innovation into the collection.
In addition to menswear, AMI Paris reintroduced the culotte skirt for women, offering it as a suit and even showcasing men wearing this garment with confidence. Coats and jackets were adorned with gold buttons, elevating their appearance to a chic and luxurious level. However, certain deviations from the classic universe, such as lined sweaters or trench coat sleeves covered in fake fur, were less convincing in their execution.
Throughout the collection, subtle hints of glamour were intertwined, with rhinestone tops and a radiant gold lamé dress stealing the spotlight. As the show reached its conclusion, Alexandre Mattiussi chose to end with a simple, classic coat cinched at the waist with a wide belt. Laetitia Casta gracefully walked the runway in this ensemble, showcasing the coat’s rounded shoulders and enveloping silhouette. With flowing tresses and hands nonchalantly tucked in pockets, she closed the heavy wooden front door—a symbolic gesture marking the end of AMI Paris’ captivating show.
The AMI Paris autumn-winter 2024/25 collection epitomized timeless chic fashion, embodying the essence of Parisian style. With its impeccable tailoring, elegant proportions, and subtle glamour, the brand reaffirmed its position as a formidable force in the fashion industry.
Links to relevant articles:
1. Vogue: AMI Paris Fall 2024 Menswear Collection
2. Business of Fashion: AMI Paris Men’s Autumn 2024 Show Review
