Achilles Ion Gabriel, the renowned footwear designer known for his trendy and vibrant shoes, is expanding his brand into the world of ready-to-wear fashion. To unveil his new venture, Gabriel chose Pitti Uomo as the platform to debut his gender-neutral clothing, shoes, and accessories collection. As the creative director of Spanish label Camper since 2020, the Finnish designer has gained recognition for creating a unique grunge-western style with a twist of Rick Owens, offering a fresh perspective on men’s fashion.
Gabriel’s first collection featured an array of fashionable garments, including suits, leather pieces, cargo trousers, denim, and nighties and lace tops. What made his presentation truly stand out was that all of these pieces were skillfully worn by both men and women, showcasing a gender-neutral approach. The models exuded a rustic charm reminiscent of characters from an Aki Kaurismäki cowboy film, completing their looks with the designer’s signature ash/sky blue santiags.
Accessories played a crucial role in the collection, with faux leather trousers, shearling-lined faux fur coats, long leather gloves, and maxi belts adorned with metal rings adding an extra touch of style. These belts, when worn as shoulder straps to hold a bag, had a striking resemblance to a cowboy’s cartridge belt, further enhancing the western aesthetic.
While Gabriel had previously designed a few garments for Camper or Camperlab, this marks his first solo collection. For the autumn-winter 2024/2025 season, he embraced oversized volumes and loose cuts reminiscent of Balenciaga’s iconic aesthetic. Floor-length coats in grey Princes of Wales pattern or black banker stripes stole the spotlight, perfectly complemented by tone-on-tone suits with reimagined shapes, such as suit jackets with broad shoulders.
One of the highlights of the collection was the unique coat-skirt ensemble. Gabriel showcased coats that were cleverly cut in half, with the bottom part transformed into a skirt. These skirts were then layered over a pair of trousers and worn with a suit jacket, all constructed from the same checkered tweed fabric. This innovative design caught the attention of fashion enthusiasts and demonstrated Gabriel’s ability to think outside the box.
In addition to reimagining essential pieces from the men’s wardrobe, Achilles Ion Gabriel infused a streetwear aesthetic into his designs to create a cool and edgy vibe. Sweatshirts, baseball caps, and shredded nylon cargos added a modern twist to the collection. Leather pieces were also a prominent component, with paint-like details appearing to drip on shiny black leather coats, and jackets and trousers displaying artistic scratches and doodles.
While some may have anticipated more bold and daring pieces from the designer, Gabriel expressed his creative flair through intricate details. For example, the text “move bitch” was engraved on the metal spikes of the cowboy boots, adding a rebellious touch. These boots are expected to become a favorite among fashion enthusiasts.
With the support of two financial partners from his own network, Achilles Ion Gabriel produces his clothes in Italy and the UK, with his studio based in Paris. This allows him to maintain a high level of quality and craftsmanship throughout the manufacturing process.
In summary, Achilles Ion Gabriel’s debut collection at Pitti Uomo is a testament to his rebellious and unique aesthetic, blending grunge, western, and streetwear influences seamlessly. The collection showcases his ability to translate his innovative footwear designs into a cohesive and complete ready-to-wear collection. Fashion enthusiasts can eagerly anticipate embracing his cool and gender-neutral styles in the upcoming seasons.
For more information on Achilles Ion Gabriel and his collection, visit the official website [link] and Instagram page [link].
